Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 16:00-23:00
Hanoi's Bia Hoi Corner at Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen is one of Asia's cheapest beer junctions, with fresh draft at 10,000-15,000 VND on plastic stools.
Try: Fresh draft bia hoi and grilled snacks
Order: A bia hoi at the cheapest corner stall plus dried squid with chilli salt from passing snack carts.
Tip: Bring small notes. The corner closes at 23:00 when police clear the pavement; the bia hoi crowd then walks to bun dau or pho.
Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 05:00-01:00
Xoi Yen in Hanoi sells turmeric sticky rice with savoury toppings for under 50,000 VND on Nguyen Huu Huan, open from dawn to 01:00 the next morning.
Try: Xoi xeo sticky rice
Order: Xoi xeo with mung bean, caramel pork and crispy shallots; under 35,000 VND.
Tip: Cash only and small bills work best. Takeaway parcels wrapped in banana leaves.
Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 07:00-21:00
Banh Mi 25 in Hanoi serves the Old Quarter's most-photographed banh mi at 30,000-40,000 VND, with two pork, three chicken, two beef and four vegetarian.
Try: Banh mi sandwich
Order: Banh mi xa xiu with Chinese-style pork and pate; add 5,000 VND for extras.
Tip: Three counters at 25, 30 and 32 Hang Ca. Card accepted; eat on the pavement benches.
Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 06:00-10:00, 18:00-20:30
Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan in Hanoi is the Old Quarter's Michelin Bib Gourmand pho house, with bowls at 60,000-80,000 VND and self-service from queue to seat.
Try: Pho bo
Order: Pho tai nam: rare beef and flank steak in clear bone broth; add quay fried dough for dipping.
Tip: Closes mid-morning to mid-afternoon. Cash only; carry small bills.
Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 07:00-22:30
Bun Bo Nam Bo on Hang Dieu has served one dish at 60,000 VND since 1986: rice noodles with stir-fried beef, herbs, peanuts and crispy shallots in nuoc cham.
Try: Bun bo Nam Bo
Order: Bun bo Nam Bo: the only dish, dressed in nuoc cham at the table.
Tip: Long metal tables; share with strangers and pass the herbs along. Cash only and small bills.
Vietnamese$hai-ba-trungDaily 08:00-21:00
Bun Cha Huong Lien in Hanoi sells the Combo Obama set for 130,000 VND: a bowl of bun cha, a fried seafood spring roll and a Hanoi beer pairing.
Try: Bun cha (Combo Obama)
Order: Combo Obama: bun cha plus seafood spring roll plus Hanoi beer.
Tip: Cash and card. The Obama-Bourdain table is preserved in glass on the second floor.