Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 05:00-01:00
Xoi Yen in Hanoi sells turmeric sticky rice with savoury toppings for under 50,000 VND on Nguyen Huu Huan, open from dawn to 01:00 the next morning.
Try: Xoi xeo sticky rice
Order: Xoi xeo with mung bean, caramel pork and crispy shallots; under 35,000 VND.
Tip: Cash only and small bills work best. Takeaway parcels wrapped in banana leaves.
Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 07:00-21:00
Banh Mi 25 in Hanoi serves the Old Quarter's most-photographed banh mi at 30,000-40,000 VND, with two pork, three chicken, two beef and four vegetarian.
Try: Banh mi sandwich
Order: Banh mi xa xiu with Chinese-style pork and pate; add 5,000 VND for extras.
Tip: Three counters at 25, 30 and 32 Hang Ca. Card accepted; eat on the pavement benches.
Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 06:00-10:00, 18:00-20:30
Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan in Hanoi is the Old Quarter's Michelin Bib Gourmand pho house, with bowls at 60,000-80,000 VND and self-service from queue to seat.
Try: Pho bo
Order: Pho tai nam: rare beef and flank steak in clear bone broth; add quay fried dough for dipping.
Tip: Closes mid-morning to mid-afternoon. Cash only; carry small bills.
Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 07:00-22:30
Bun Bo Nam Bo on Hang Dieu has served one dish at 60,000 VND since 1986: rice noodles with stir-fried beef, herbs, peanuts and crispy shallots in nuoc cham.
Try: Bun bo Nam Bo
Order: Bun bo Nam Bo: the only dish, dressed in nuoc cham at the table.
Tip: Long metal tables; share with strangers and pass the herbs along. Cash only and small bills.
Vietnamese$hai-ba-trungDaily 08:00-21:00
Bun Cha Huong Lien in Hanoi sells the Combo Obama set for 130,000 VND: a bowl of bun cha, a fried seafood spring roll and a Hanoi beer pairing.
Try: Bun cha (Combo Obama)
Order: Combo Obama: bun cha plus seafood spring roll plus Hanoi beer.
Tip: Cash and card. The Obama-Bourdain table is preserved in glass on the second floor.
Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 06:00-14:00
Banh Cuon Gia Truyen in Hanoi plates silky rice rolls with pork and wood-ear mushroom for 40,000-60,000 VND on Hang Ga, steamed to order since 1973.
Try: Banh cuon steamed rice rolls
Order: Banh cuon with pork-and-wood-ear filling plus a slice of cha que cinnamon pork sausage.
Tip: Breakfast and lunch only; closed mid-afternoon. Cash only, plates run 40-60,000 VND.