Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 06:00-10:00, 18:00-20:30
Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan in Hanoi is the Old Quarter's Michelin Bib Gourmand pho house, with bowls at 60,000-80,000 VND and self-service from queue to seat.
Try: Pho bo
Order: Pho tai nam: rare beef and flank steak in clear bone broth; add quay fried dough for dipping.
Tip: Closes mid-morning to mid-afternoon. Cash only; carry small bills.
Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 07:00-22:30
Bun Bo Nam Bo on Hang Dieu has served one dish at 60,000 VND since 1986: rice noodles with stir-fried beef, herbs, peanuts and crispy shallots in nuoc cham.
Try: Bun bo Nam Bo
Order: Bun bo Nam Bo: the only dish, dressed in nuoc cham at the table.
Tip: Long metal tables; share with strangers and pass the herbs along. Cash only and small bills.
Vietnamese$hai-ba-trungDaily 08:00-21:00
Bun Cha Huong Lien in Hanoi sells the Combo Obama set for 130,000 VND: a bowl of bun cha, a fried seafood spring roll and a Hanoi beer pairing.
Try: Bun cha (Combo Obama)
Order: Combo Obama: bun cha plus seafood spring roll plus Hanoi beer.
Tip: Cash and card. The Obama-Bourdain table is preserved in glass on the second floor.
Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 06:00-14:00
Banh Cuon Gia Truyen in Hanoi plates silky rice rolls with pork and wood-ear mushroom for 40,000-60,000 VND on Hang Ga, steamed to order since 1973.
Try: Banh cuon steamed rice rolls
Order: Banh cuon with pork-and-wood-ear filling plus a slice of cha que cinnamon pork sausage.
Tip: Breakfast and lunch only; closed mid-afternoon. Cash only, plates run 40-60,000 VND.
Vietnamese$ba-dinhDaily 09:00-23:00
Pho Cuon Huong Mai on Ngu Xa runs the rolled-pho strip near Truc Bach Lake for 60,000-100,000 VND a plate, with fresh sheets wrapped around beef.
Try: Pho cuon
Order: Pho cuon rolled rice noodles with herbs and beef; add pho chien phong puffed pho on the side.
Tip: Whole Ngu Xa block runs the same dish; if Huong Mai is full, the next counter does it for the same price.
Vietnamese$old-quarterDaily 10:00-22:00
Bun Dau Mam Tom Co Tuyen serves the Old Quarter's most-recommended bun dau plate for 60,000-90,000 VND, with fried tofu, rice noodles and pork on Khay.
Try: Bun dau mam tom
Order: Bun dau combo with tofu, rice noodles, boiled pork, fried pork roll and mam tom shrimp paste.
Tip: Cash only. The mam tom shrimp paste is assertive; ask staff to balance with lime and sugar.