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Street food
Ben's Chili Bowl in Washington DC is the 1958 U Street counter from Ben and Virginia Ali, the city's defining chili half-smoke counter serving past 04:00.
TryChili half-smoke and chili cheese fries
TipLate nights see the longest lines; the counter on the right runs takeaway faster than the dining-room line.
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Street food
Julia's Empanadas in Washington DC is the Adams Morgan 18th Street empanada counter since 1993, the late-night corner that established the format.
TryHand-pinched Latin American empanadas
TipTwo empanadas plus a side stays under $12; Friday and Saturday counter is the bar-crawl late-night anchor on 18th Street.
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Street food
Captain Cookie & the Milk Man in Washington DC is the Western Market flagship of the DC food-truck-turned-storefront on I Street near Farragut Square.
TryWarm chocolate-chip cookie ice cream sandwich
TipThe warm chocolate-chip cookie ice cream sandwich is the editorial signature; the food truck still circulates DC for lunch shifts on weekdays.
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Street food
Pho 14 Columbia Heights in Washington DC is the Park Road Vietnamese counter near the Columbia Heights Metro, with pho served from a 14-hour broth.
TryVietnamese pho tai chin
TipThe pho dac biet (special) with rare beef and brisket is the editorial bowl; bowl size large feeds two for $14.
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Street food
Tortilla Cafe in Washington DC is the Capitol Hill 7th Street Salvadoran-Mexican counter across from Eastern Market, with pupusas, tacos and Salvadoran.
TryPupusas and tacos al pastor
TipOutdoor sidewalk seats are the move at lunch; the pupusas come three to a plate with curtido for $11.
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Street food
Pizza Mart Adams Morgan in Washington DC is the 18th Street late-night pizza counter, one of two rooms claiming to have invented the jumbo slice.
Try18-inch jumbo slice
TipCash is fastest after midnight; one folded jumbo slice walks two people home from the Adams Morgan strip.
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Street food
Duccini's Pizza in Washington DC is the U Street NW jumbo-slice counter near the Adams Morgan strip, open to 05:00 on Friday and Saturday nights.
TryJumbo slice and stromboli
TipThe mushroom-and-pepperoni jumbo slice is the favourite; the stromboli is the under-ordered second pick.
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Street food
Jumbo Slice Pizza in Washington DC is the 18th Street late-night pizza counter on the Adams Morgan strip, holding the same 04:00 weekend close.
Try18-inch jumbo slice
TipThe cheese-slice with hot honey is the closing-time editorial pick; sit on the sidewalk bench facing the strip.
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Street food
Weenie Beenie is the Arlington half-smoke counter at 2680 South Shirlington Road, a 1950s walk-up window that claims a Northern Virginia hold.
TryHalf-smoke chili dog (Arlington)
TipThe Weenie Beenie half-smoke is leaner than Ben's; the chili-and-cheese order is the editorial point of comparison.
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Street food
Maine Avenue Fish Market in Washington DC is the Southwest Waterfront open-air seafood market on Maine Avenue, the oldest continuously-operating open-air.
TryBoiled blue crabs and shrimp by the pound
TipPre-cooked seafood is sold by the pound; carry the brown bag to a Wharf bench for a $30 lunch for two.
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Street food
Florida Avenue Grill in Washington DC is the LeDroit Park diner at the corner of Florida and 11th since 1944, the city's oldest soul food counter.
TryHalf-smoke breakfast plate
TipBreakfast runs all day; the half-smoke plate with grits and eggs is the editorial morning order.
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Street food
Oohh's & Aahh's in Washington DC is the U Street soul-food counter from Oji Abbott since 2005, with mumbo sauce wings, fried catfish and the carryout.
TrySoul food with mumbo sauce wings
TipThe fried catfish and shrimp with mumbo sauce is the menu standout; takeaway runs faster than the dining-room queue.
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Street food
Henry's Soul Cafe in Washington DC is the U Street soul-food counter from Henry Smith since 1968, with sweet potato pie sold by the slice and the carryout.
TrySweet potato pie, fried chicken, mumbo wings
TipThe sweet potato pie ships nationally; buy the whole pie at the U Street counter to take home.