Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-04:00, Sun 11:00-23:00
Ben's Chili Bowl in Washington DC is the 1958 U Street counter from Ben and Virginia Ali, the city's defining chili half-smoke counter serving past 04:00 on weekends.
Try: Chili half-smoke and chili cheese fries
Tip: Late nights see the longest lines; the counter on the right runs takeaway faster than the dining-room line.
Mon-Thu 11:00-02:30, Fri-Sat 11:00-04:00, Sun 12:00-02:30
Amsterdam Falafelshop in Washington DC is the Adams Morgan 18th Street falafel counter from Arianne Bennett, with self-serve toppings and a 04:00 weekend close that anchors the late-night strip.
Try: Falafel sandwich with self-serve toppings
Tip: Sandwich plus 21 self-serve toppings is $9; the patatas-bravas fries are the second-most-ordered side.
Mon-Sun 11:00-23:00
Halal Guys Farragut Square in Washington DC is the K Street halal-cart-format dining room from the New York halal cart franchise, with chicken-and-rice platters and the white sauce.
Try: Chicken and rice platter with white sauce
Tip: Skip the white-sauce overload by asking for it on the side; the hot sauce is the same recipe as Manhattan's original cart.
Mon-Sun 10:00-22:00
Pho 14 Columbia Heights in Washington DC is the Park Road Vietnamese counter near the Columbia Heights Metro, with pho served from a 14-hour broth and a five-item menu lean focus.
Try: Vietnamese pho tai chin
Tip: The pho dac biet (special) with rare beef and brisket is the editorial bowl; bowl size large feeds two for $14.
Mon-Sat 09:00-22:00, Sun 09:00-20:00
Tortilla Cafe in Washington DC is the Capitol Hill 7th Street Salvadoran-Mexican counter across from Eastern Market, with pupusas, tacos and Salvadoran tamales served from a tight kitchen.
Try: Pupusas and tacos al pastor
Tip: Outdoor sidewalk seats are the move at lunch; the pupusas come three to a plate with curtido for $11.
Daily 11:00-04:00
Pizza Mart Adams Morgan in Washington DC is the 18th Street late-night pizza counter, one of two rooms claiming to have invented the jumbo slice in the late 1990s for the bar crowd.
Try: 18-inch jumbo slice
Tip: Cash is fastest after midnight; one folded jumbo slice walks two people home from the Adams Morgan strip.
Mon-Thu 11:00-02:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-04:00, Sun 11:00-02:00
Duccini's Pizza Adams Morgan in Washington DC is the 18th Street jumbo-slice counter facing Pizza Mart, the other Adams Morgan claim to the jumbo-slice late-night format invention.
Try: Jumbo slice and stromboli
Tip: The mushroom-and-pepperoni jumbo slice is the favourite; the stromboli is the under-ordered second pick.
Daily 11:00-04:00
Jumbo Slice Pizza in Washington DC is the third 18th Street late-night pizza counter on the Adams Morgan strip, holding the same 04:00 weekend close as the Pizza Mart and Duccini's neighbours.
Try: 18-inch jumbo slice
Tip: The cheese-slice with hot honey is the closing-time editorial pick; sit on the sidewalk bench facing the strip.
Mon-Sat 06:00-22:00, Sun 06:00-20:00
Weenie Beenie is the Arlington half-smoke counter at 2680 South Shirlington Road, a 1950s walk-up window that claims a Northern Virginia hold on the half-smoke that predates Ben's Chili Bowl.
Try: Half-smoke chili dog (Arlington)
Tip: The Weenie Beenie half-smoke is leaner than Ben's; the chili-and-cheese order is the editorial point of comparison.
Mon-Sun 08:00-21:00
Maine Avenue Fish Market in Washington DC is the Southwest Waterfront open-air seafood market on Maine Avenue, the oldest continuously-operating open-air fish market in the United States.
Try: Boiled blue crabs and shrimp by the pound
Tip: Pre-cooked seafood is sold by the pound; carry the brown bag to a Wharf bench for a $30 lunch for two.
Mon-Sat 06:00-21:00, Sun 07:00-19:00
Florida Avenue Grill in Washington DC is the LeDroit Park diner at the corner of Florida and 11th since 1944, the city's oldest soul food counter with the half-smoke breakfast plate.
Try: Half-smoke breakfast plate
Tip: Breakfast runs all day; the half-smoke plate with grits and eggs is the editorial morning order.
Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-21:00
Oohh's & Aahh's in Washington DC is the U Street soul-food counter from Oji Abbott since 2005, with mumbo sauce wings, fried catfish and the carryout three-piece plate as the editorial format.
Try: Soul food with mumbo sauce wings
Tip: The fried catfish and shrimp with mumbo sauce is the menu standout; takeaway runs faster than the dining-room queue.
Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00, Sun 12:00-19:00
Henry's Soul Cafe in Washington DC is the U Street soul-food counter from Henry Smith since 1968, with sweet potato pie sold by the slice and the carryout fried chicken and mumbo wings.
Try: Sweet potato pie, fried chicken, mumbo wings
Tip: The sweet potato pie ships nationally; buy the whole pie at the U Street counter to take home.