Italian$$$the-hillWed-Thu 16:30-21:00, Fri-Sat 16:30-21:30, Sun 16:00-20:00, closed Mon-Tue
Open on The Hill since 1989, Gian-Tony's serves Southern Italian veal, chicken and seafood from a chef-owner who still runs the kitchen most nights.
Order: Veal and pasta plates from chef-owner Tony Catarinicchia.
Tip: Reserve for the small dining room and ask after the night's veal preparation. Closed early in the week, so plan a Wednesday-to-Sunday visit.
Bosnian and Turkish$$webster-grovesTue-Sun 11:00-20:00, closed Mon
Loryn and Edo Nalic bake somun in a wood-fired oven and turn out cevapi and lahmacun, a James Beard-recognised take on Bosnian and Turkish street food.
Order: Wood-fired somun bread with cevapi and a lahmacun flatbread.
Tip: The bread comes straight from the oven, so the somun-based plates are the way in. Lines build at lunch; go early or late.
Memphis-style BBQ$$midtownMon & Wed 11:00-16:00, Thu 11:00-18:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-19:00, Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Tue
Pappy's smokes Memphis-style ribs over apple and cherry wood in Midtown and lands on national BBQ lists. The ribs are the order, and they sell out daily.
Order: Dry-rubbed ribs smoked over apple and cherry wood.
Tip: Arrive before noon at weekends; they smoke a fixed amount each day and close when it is gone. Cash and card both work.
BBQ$$delmar-loopSun-Thu 11:00-21:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-22:00
Salt + Smoke smokes brisket over post oak for 16 hours in the Delmar Loop and pairs it with a deep bourbon list. The city's leading new-school BBQ name.
Order: Post-oak brisket with the fried pimento-cheese balls.
Tip: Brisket sells out, so save a spot on the waitlist or come early. The bourbon and beer list is as much the draw as the meat.
Fried chicken$$benton-parkMon-Sat 11:00-21:00, Sun 11:00-20:00
Hodak's has won Riverfront Times reader polls for best fried chicken since the 1990s. The family-run Gravois corner room is a no-frills temple to the bird.
Order: The fried chicken dinner with sides.
Tip: The fried chicken is the only thing most regulars order; pair it with the slaw and a cold draft. Expect a wait on Friday nights.
Korean-Mexican$the-groveMon-Sat 11:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-21:00
David Choi's 2011 food truck grew into a small Korean-Mexican chain built on bulgogi tacos and kimchi-fried-rice bowls. The Chouteau kitchen is the original.
Order: The Seoul taco and the gogi bowl with bulgogi.
Tip: The gogi bowl feeds two if you are light eaters; add the chips and queso. Counter service, fast turnaround.