Italian cooking is the bedrock of St. Louis dining, centered on The Hill, the historic Italian-American neighborhood. Charlie Gitto's On The Hill is tied to the toasted-ravioli origin story and plates red-sauce classics, while the family-run Zia's On The Hill is the everyday table locals lean on. Gerard Craft's Pastaria in Clayton is the most reliable Italian room off The Hill.
$$$$ItalianClayton
James Beard winner Gerard Craft's Clayton Italian runs on handmade pasta and wood-fired pizza in a busy room. The most reliable Italian table off The Hill.
OrderHandmade pasta of the day with a wood-oven pizza.
TipIt books up at weekends; the bar and the patio take walk-ins. The next-door Pastaria Deli & Wine handles takeaway.
$$$$ItalianMaplewood
Acero plates handmade pasta and a deep, off-the-beaten-path Italian wine list in Maplewood. It is the quiet, grown-up Italian dinner locals favour.
OrderHouse-made pasta and a glass of an obscure Italian varietal.
TipThe wine list rewards trusting the staff with a regional pick. Reserve on Resy; the room is small.
$$$$ItalianThe Hill
A Hill institution tied to the toasted-ravioli origin story, Charlie Gitto's plates red-sauce Italian classics in a clubby room. The t-ravs draw first-timers.
OrderToasted ravioli, which the restaurant claims to have popularised.
TipReserve for dinner; the dining room fills with regulars and out-of-town pilgrims. Start with the toasted ravioli and a Caesar.
$$$$ItalianThe Hill
A family-run Hill room going since 1985, Zia's plates generous Italian-American spiedini and pasta. The everyday Hill table locals lean on over the big names.
OrderToasted ravioli and the chicken spiedini.
TipReservations are taken for parties of eight or more only, so expect a wait at peak. The chicken spiedini is the house signature.
$$$$ItalianThe Hill
Open on The Hill since 1989, Gian-Tony's serves Southern Italian veal, chicken and seafood from a chef-owner who still runs the kitchen most nights.
OrderVeal and pasta plates from chef-owner Tony Catarinicchia.
TipReserve for the small dining room and ask after the night's veal preparation. Closed early in the week, so plan a Wednesday-to-Sunday visit.
$$$$Italian-americanThe Hill
STL Toasted took over the old Mama Toscano's space on The Hill and built a counter entirely around toasted ravioli, the breaded-and-fried dish born here.
OrderToasted ravioli, the dish the shop is built around.
TipHours are limited to the weekend, so plan a Friday-to-Sunday visit. Order the t-ravs by the dozen with marinara.
$$$$Italian DeliThe Hill
Mama Adriana Fazio opened this Shaw Avenue sandwich shop over 30 years ago, and her daughters still run it. The foot-long subs are a Hill lunch institution.
OrderThe Sicilian sub and a cup of the day's soup.
TipIt is lunch only and closes mid-afternoon; the line moves fast. Get the Sicilian sub and split it.
$$$$ItalianThe Hill
A family taverna on The Hill, Anthonino's blends Italian and Greek cooking, from toasted ravioli to spanakopita, a casual room popular with families.
OrderToasted ravioli and the Greek-Italian pastas.
TipThe toasted ravioli and the Greek-Italian crossover dishes are the draws. It fills with families at weekends.
$$$$ItalianRock Hill
Katie Collier's Rock Hill osteria fires blistered pizzas and plates house-made pasta in a buzzy room, a polished casual Italian with several metro branches.
OrderWood-fired pizza and house-made pasta.
TipThe wood-fired pizzas and the burrata are the orders. Reserve ahead; the Rock Hill room stays busy.
$$$$Italian DeliThe Hill
A James Beard America's Classics winner on The Hill, Gioia's slices its house Hot Salami onto fresh-baked bread, a sandwich St. Louis treats as a rite.
OrderThe Original Hot Salami sandwich.
TipThe Original Hot Salami is the order, made from Gioia's own fresh sausage. The line moves fast at lunch.
$$$$Italian
Gerard Craft's flagship Italian room in Clayton plates hand-rolled pastas and wood-fired pizzas across a long, ingredient-driven menu in a lively dining room.
TipThe pasta-and-pizza tasting is the way to eat here; reserve on OpenTable. Pastaria Deli and Wine next door is the lighter, walk-in alternative.
$$$$Italian
Edera plates modern Italian and house-made pasta on Maryland Plaza, a polished contemporary counterpoint to the red-sauce rooms of The Hill. A grown-up room.
TipSit on the Maryland Plaza patio in warm months and ask which pasta was made that day. Reserve ahead at weekends.
$$$$Italian
Chef Tim Adams's mid-century Italian-American room in Old Webster Groves pairs handmade pastas with a wine list run by sommelier Alisha Blackwell-Calvert.
TipReserve on OpenTable; the family-style four-course tasting is the way to eat here. Trust the sommelier's by-the-glass picks.
$$$$ItalianThe Hill
STL Toasted is in the old mama toscano's space with weekend-only hours, stl toasted is a single-minded toasted-ravioli counter most visitors never time right.
TipOpen only Friday to Sunday; order the t-ravs by the dozen with marinara. It carries on the Hill's ravioli tradition.