Italian$$$claytonDaily 16:00-21:00
James Beard winner Gerard Craft's Clayton Italian runs on handmade pasta and wood-fired pizza in a busy room. The most reliable Italian table off The Hill.
Order: Handmade pasta of the day with a wood-oven pizza.
Tip: It books up at weekends; the bar and the patio take walk-ins. The next-door Pastaria Deli & Wine handles takeaway.
Italian$$$maplewoodTue-Sat 17:00-21:00, closed Sun-Mon
Acero plates handmade pasta and a deep, off-the-beaten-path Italian wine list in Maplewood. It is the quiet, grown-up Italian dinner locals favour.
Order: House-made pasta and a glass of an obscure Italian varietal.
Tip: The wine list rewards trusting the staff with a regional pick. Reserve on Resy; the room is small.
Italian bistro$$$claytonTue-Sun 16:00-22:00, closed Mon
This DeMun bistro pairs a fiery pizza oven with a tight Italian menu, and its wood-oven roast chicken is among the best in the metro. A neighbourhood room.
Order: The wood-oven roast chicken and the Ramon gnocco.
Tip: It does not take many reservations, so come early or settle in at the bar. The gnocco fritto is close to mandatory.
Vietnamese$$brentwoodMon-Sat 11:00-21:00, Sun 11:00-20:00
Opened in 1985 and credited as the first Vietnamese restaurant in St. Louis, Mai Lee runs a vast menu of pho, bun and canh chua that sets the local standard.
Order: Salt-and-pepper calamari, pho, and canh chua sour soup.
Tip: The menu runs to hundreds of items; the salt-and-pepper calamari and the sour soup are the orders to anchor a table around.
American$$$benton-parkTue-Sat 16:00-21:00, closed Sun-Mon
A Benton Park gathering place for 25 years, Frazer's pairs a globe-trotting comfort menu with one of the better cocktail programmes on the south side.
Order: The cioppino loaded with mussels, clams, shrimp and squid.
Tip: It is a neighbourhood room that fills with regulars; reserve at weekends and ask the bar what is being shaken that night.
Italian$$$the-hillMon-Thu 17:00-21:00, Fri-Sat 17:00-22:00, Sun 16:00-21:00
A Hill institution tied to the toasted-ravioli origin story, Charlie Gitto's plates red-sauce Italian classics in a clubby room. The t-ravs draw first-timers.
Order: Toasted ravioli, which the restaurant claims to have popularised.
Tip: Reserve for dinner; the dining room fills with regulars and out-of-town pilgrims. Start with the toasted ravioli and a Caesar.