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BakeryCountry loaves and laminated pastryWalk-in only
Tartine Bakery in San Francisco is Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Prueitt's Guerrero Street original, redrawing what a country loaf and a morning bun.
Worth the queueMorning bun
TipCountry loaves come out at 16:30; queue from 16:00 to be sure of one.
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BakeryModern French pastryWalk-in only
b. Patisserie in San Francisco is Belinda Leong and Michel Suas's Pacific Heights cafe with the city's best kouign-amann and a Paris-trained pastry programme.
Worth the queueKouign-amann
TipThe kouign-amann is best within 90 minutes of the bake; ask the counter for the timing on the next tray.
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BakeryFrench viennoiserieWalk-in only
Arsicault Bakery in San Francisco is Armando Lacayo's Inner Richmond counter, named America's best croissant by Bon Appetit and still drawing a 09:30 queue.
Worth the queuePlain croissant
TipPlain butter croissant, not the almond; the lamination tells the whole story.
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BakeryWhole-grain breads and pastriesWalk-in only
Jane the Bakery in San Francisco is Amanda Michael's Lower Pac Heights flagship, with a stone-mill grain programme and the city's best whole-grain country.
Worth the queueCountry grain loaf
TipThe cardamom morning bun is the dark-horse order; ask if they have any left after 11:00.
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BakeryViennoiserie and savoury pastriesWalk-in only
Neighbor Bakehouse in San Francisco is Greg Mindel's Dogpatch counter, with the everything croissant and chocolate babka that started a small national.
Worth the queueEverything croissant
TipEverything croissant sells out by 11:30 on weekends.
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BakeryBreakfast sandwiches and pastriesWalk-in only
Devil's Teeth Baking Company in San Francisco is the Outer Sunset bakery and breakfast counter, with a buttermilk biscuit egg sandwich and the city's best.
Worth the queueBreakfast sandwich on house biscuit
TipBeignets are fried to order on weekends; ask for them with the powdered sugar on the side.