Lemaire ★ 4.7
Lemaire inside the Jefferson Hotel is named for Etienne Lemaire, Thomas Jefferson's maitre d'. Patrick Willis runs the kitchen, the city's grande dame.
History
American shad spawned in the James River for centuries; the spring shad run was a key food source for Indigenous Powhatan peoples and colonial Richmond alike. Industrial damming and pollution decimated the runs through the 20th century, but contemporary restoration efforts brought the fish back. The shad-roe season runs March through early April; Richmond fish markets receive limited supplies, and Lemaire and other downtown kitchens build short-window menus around it.
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1 pair shad roe (about 250g)
- 4 slices thick-cut bacon
- 2 tbsp unsalted butter
- Plain flour for dusting
- Salt, black pepper
- 1 lemon, cut into wedges
Method
- Cook bacon slowly in a heavy pan to render fat. Remove bacon when crisp, reserve.
- Carefully separate the shad-roe sacs. Pat dry, dust lightly in seasoned flour.
- Add butter to the bacon-fat pan. Lay shad roe in over medium-low heat. Cook gently 4 minutes per side, basting; the membrane is delicate.
- Serve at once on warm plates with bacon crumbled on top and lemon wedges alongside.
Tip from the editors. Cook slowly. High heat blows the membrane and the eggs scatter. Medium-low, patient turning, baste with butter.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Where to eat shad roe
Shad roe in Richmond
Rappahannock ★ 4.4
Rappahannock's bar on Grace pours Virginia sparkling and East Coast whites with Croxton family oysters. Marble counter, no reservation needed.
Signature drink: Virginia sparkling, oyster shooter
Food: Oysters, crab cake, crudo
Acacia Midtown ★ 4.4
Acacia Midtown at Libbie Mill is Dale Reitzer's third Acacia location. Multi-time James Beard nominee; modern coastal Virginia cooking, off-radar.
Order: Tasting menu.
Why locals love it: Tucked inside Libbie Mill's mixed-use complex; tourists searching downtown miss Dale Reitzer's modern-coastal room entirely.
Tip: Book directly via OpenTable; the bar accepts walk-ins on weeknights.
More cities are in research. Want shad roe covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.