Sichuan Chinese$$old-city
Han Dynasty in Philadelphia is Han Chiang's Sichuan room on Chestnut, the kitchen that ranked the spice scale 1 to 10 and made the city order dan dan noodles by name.
Signature: Dan dan noodles, Dry pot
Order: Dan dan noodles, dry-pot rabbit at heat 7, three-pepper chicken, mapo tofu.
Tip: Order one dish below the heat level you think you can handle. The 10 scale is honest.
Mediterranean$$$center-city
Barbuzzo in Philadelphia is Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran's 13th Street Mediterranean room since 2010, with wood-fired pizzas and the salted caramel budino that built the reputation.
Signature: Wood-fired pizza, Salted caramel budino
Order: Wood-fired pizza of the week; salted caramel budino, the dish locals order by name.
Tip: The bar counter overlooking the open kitchen takes walk-ups. Quietest table on a Friday night.
Neapolitan pizza$$center-city
Pizzeria Vetri in Philadelphia is Marc Vetri's Neapolitan pizza room on Chancellor near Rittenhouse Square, with the wood-fired oven from Naples and the famous rotolo.
Signature: Margherita, Rotolo
Order: Margherita with buffalo mozzarella; the rotolo (mortadella, ricotta and pistachio rolled in dough).
Tip: Walk in at 17:30 on a weeknight. The main rush starts at 18:30.
Pizza, Italian$$$fishtown
Pizzeria Beddia in Philadelphia is Joe Beddia's Fishtown reincarnation of the Bon Appetit 2015 America's Best Pizza, with a private hoagie room behind the dining room.
Signature: Margherita pizza, Hoagie
Order: Margherita with sungold tomatoes; a salad of every herb in the kitchen.
Tip: The hoagie room books separately. Reserve it for groups of four to six who want lunch sandwiches.
Vietnamese$$washington-avenue
Nam Phuong in Philadelphia is the 20-year Vietnamese banquet hall on Washington Avenue, with a 200-item menu running pho, clay pots, banh xeo and bun rieu.
Signature: Pho dac biet, Banh xeo
Order: Pho dac biet (everything bowl); banh xeo crepe; sugarcane shrimp paste with rice paper rolls.
Tip: The clay-pot section at the back of the menu is the room's quiet best. The chicken with ginger or the catfish.
Southeast Asian$$fishtown
Stock in Philadelphia is Tyler Akin's 18-seat Fishtown BYOB on Girard, with a 14-hour pho stock and a rotating khao soi from a Zahav alum kitchen.
Signature: Beef pho, Khao soi
Order: Beef pho with the side plate of herbs; khao soi if it is on the board; a roast pork banh mi at lunch.
Tip: BYOB. Bring a crisp Riesling or a Vietnamese lager. Cash and cards both work.