The counters in New York City worth queuing for: bread, pastry, and the morning ritual.
Bakery counters in New York City worth queuing for: levain breads, laminated pastry, regional bakes and the morning ritual.
Ess-a-Bagel on Third Avenue has hand-rolled bagels in Midtown New York City since 1976. Boiled in barley malt water, baked on burlap, sold dense and seeded.
Tip: The line is 30 minutes at 09:30 weekends. Order over the counter; pre-paid online jumps the line.
Worth the queue: Plain everything bagel with scallion cream cheese
Tompkins Square Bagels on Avenue A boils bagels at dawn in the East Village, New York City. Eight cream-cheese flavours, hot bagels until they sell out, cash counter.
Tip: Sells out by 13:00 most weekends. Lunch arrives early; the lox sandwich is built thick.
Worth the queue: Pumpernickel everything
Black Seed in Nolita bakes Montreal-style honey-water bagels in a wood oven in New York City. Smaller, sweeter, denser than the New York standard, with house-cured lox.
Tip: Mobile order is the fastest line. The beet-cured lox sandwich is the cross-style order to share.
Worth the queue: Beet-cured lox sandwich
William Greenberg Desserts on Madison Avenue has baked the canonical black-and-white in the Upper East Side, New York City since 1946. Schnecken, hamantaschen, Linzer.
Tip: Order black-and-whites in the bigger six-inch size. Pre-order schnecken at Rosh Hashanah; they sell out a week ahead.
Worth the queue: Black-and-white cookie
Levain Bakery has baked the six-ounce chocolate chip walnut cookie in the Upper West Side, New York City since 1995. Two-tray racks, lines around the block.
Tip: The original Upper West Side basement counter has the shortest line at 17:00. Heat one for ten seconds in your hotel microwave.
Worth the queue: Chocolate chip walnut cookie
Zabar's on Broadway has anchored Upper West Side appetising in New York City since 1934. Sliced lox, sturgeon, fresh-baked babka, and a famously argumentative counter.
Tip: Take a number at the appetising counter the moment you walk in; the bakery side has no number system.
Worth the queue: Black-and-white cookies, babka
Balthazar Bakery on Spring Street in SoHo has supplied New York City's croissants and country breads since 1997. Keith McNally's brasserie next door uses the same loaves.
Tip: Take the morning pastry to the chairs at the Spring Street subway plaza; the bakery line moves faster than the cafe line.
Worth the queue: Pain au chocolat
Uri Scheft's Breads Bakery near Union Square turns out the city's most-loved chocolate babka in New York City. Rugelach by the pound, challah on Fridays, Israeli sourdough.
Tip: Babka comes hot from the oven at 11:00 and 15:00. Slice with a serrated knife at home; do not pull it apart while warm.
Worth the queue: Chocolate babka
Veniero's has filled cannoli on East 11th Street in the East Village, New York City since 1894. Sfogliatelle, pignoli cookies, ricotta cheesecake, espresso behind the counter.
Tip: Cannoli are filled to order at the counter; never buy pre-filled. Espresso at the bar is the after-dinner move.
Worth the queue: Cannoli
Junior's on Flatbush Avenue Extension has baked New York cheesecake in Brooklyn New York City since 1950. Cream-cheese-base, graham-crust, sour-cream top, plain or strawberry.
Tip: The Brooklyn original is the right room. The Times Square outpost serves the same cake under different lighting.
Worth the queue: Original New York cheesecake
S&S Cheesecake in the Bronx has baked one cake only since 1959 in New York City. Plain, dense, the canonical New York cheesecake, supplied to delis citywide.
Tip: Cash only, weekdays only. Drive or take the 1 train to 238th; the bakery is two blocks west of the subway.
Worth the queue: Plain cheesecake
Eileen Avezzano has baked mini cheesecakes on Cleveland Place in Nolita, New York City since 1975. Single-portion glass-display counter, 25 flavours rotating weekly.
Tip: The plain or strawberry are the originals. The Oreo and the salted caramel are the indulgent picks; share two.
Worth the queue: Strawberry mini cheesecake
Peak food season in New York City is year-round.
Local dining hours: lunch around 12:30, dinner from 19:30.
service is typically included; small extra is welcome but not expected.
Ask the next local you meet what they would order. New York City rewards trust.