Bakery counters in New York City worth queuing for: levain breads, laminated pastry, regional bakes and the morning ritual.

Where to queue for bread and pastry

Ess-a-Bagel ★ 4.6

Bakery$midtownDaily 06:00-17:00Walk-in onlyHand-rolled New York bagels

Ess-a-Bagel on Third Avenue has hand-rolled bagels in Midtown New York City since 1976. Boiled in barley malt water, baked on burlap, sold dense and seeded.

Tip: The line is 30 minutes at 09:30 weekends. Order over the counter; pre-paid online jumps the line.

Worth the queue: Plain everything bagel with scallion cream cheese

Tompkins Square Bagels ★ 4.4

Bakery$east-villageDaily 06:00-15:00Walk-in onlyHand-rolled bagels

Tompkins Square Bagels on Avenue A boils bagels at dawn in the East Village, New York City. Eight cream-cheese flavours, hot bagels until they sell out.

Tip: Sells out by 13:00 most weekends. Lunch arrives early; the lox sandwich is built thick.

Worth the queue: Pumpernickel everything

Black Seed Bagels ★ 4.3

Bakery$nolitaDaily 07:00-16:00Wood-fired hand-rolled bagels

Black Seed in Nolita bakes Montreal-style honey-water bagels in a wood oven in New York City. Smaller, sweeter, denser than the New York standard.

Tip: Mobile order is the fastest line. The beet-cured lox sandwich is the cross-style order to share.

Worth the queue: Beet-cured lox sandwich

William Greenberg Desserts ★ 4.5

Bakery$upper-east-sideMon-Sat 09:00-18:00, Sun 09:00-17:00Black-and-white cookies, schnecken

William Greenberg Desserts on Madison Avenue has baked the canonical black-and-white in the Upper East Side, New York City since 1946. Schnecken.

Tip: Order black-and-whites in the bigger six-inch size. Pre-order schnecken at Rosh Hashanah; they sell out a week ahead.

Worth the queue: Black-and-white cookie

Levain Bakery ★ 4.4

Bakery$upper-west-sideDaily 08:00-19:00Walk-in onlySix-ounce cookies

Levain Bakery has baked the six-ounce chocolate chip walnut cookie in the Upper West Side, New York City since 1995. Two-tray racks, lines around the block.

Tip: The original Upper West Side basement counter has the shortest line at 17:00. Heat one for ten seconds in your hotel microwave.

Worth the queue: Chocolate chip walnut cookie

Zabar's ★ 4.6

Bakery$upper-west-sideMon-Fri 08:00-19:30, Sat 08:00-20:00, Sun 09:00-18:00Walk-in onlyAppetising, deli, bakery

Zabar's on Broadway has anchored Upper West Side appetising in New York City since 1934. At 2245 Broadway. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.

Tip: Take a number at the appetising counter the moment you walk in; the bakery side has no number system.

Worth the queue: Black-and-white cookies, babka

Balthazar Bakery ★ 4.3

Bakery$sohoDaily 07:00-19:00Walk-in onlyFrench viennoiserie and breads

Balthazar Bakery on Spring Street in SoHo has supplied New York City's croissants and country breads since 1997. Open daily 07:00-19:00. At 80 Spring Street.

Tip: Take the morning pastry to the chairs at the Spring Street subway plaza; the bakery line moves faster than the cafe line.

Worth the queue: Pain au chocolat

Breads Bakery ★ 4.5

Bakery$union-squareDaily 07:00-19:00Chocolate babka, rugelach, challah

Uri Scheft's Breads Bakery near Union Square turns out the city's most-loved chocolate babka in New York City. Rugelach by the pound, challah on Fridays.

Tip: Babka comes hot from the oven at 11:00 and 15:00. Slice with a serrated knife at home; do not pull it apart while warm.

Worth the queue: Chocolate babka

Veniero's ★ 4.4

Bakery$east-villageMon-Thu 08:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 08:00-24:00, Sun 08:00-23:00Italian American pastry

Veniero's has filled cannoli on East 11th Street in the East Village, New York City since 1894. Sfogliatelle, pignoli cookies, ricotta cheesecake.

Tip: Cannoli are filled to order at the counter; never buy pre-filled. Espresso at the bar is the after-dinner move.

Worth the queue: Cannoli

Junior's Restaurant ★ 4.2

Bakery$downtown-brooklynDaily 06:30-24:00New York cheesecake

Junior's on Flatbush Avenue Extension has baked New York cheesecake in Brooklyn New York City since 1950. Cream-cheese-base, graham-crust, sour-cream top.

Tip: The Brooklyn original is the right room. The Times Square outpost serves the same cake under different lighting.

Worth the queue: Original New York cheesecake

S&S Cheesecake ★ 4.7

Bakery$the-bronxMon-Fri 08:00-15:00Walk-in onlyPlain New York cheesecake

S&S Cheesecake in the Bronx has baked one cake only since 1959 in New York City. Plain, dense, the canonical New York cheesecake, supplied to delis citywide.

Tip: Cash only, weekdays only. Drive or take the 1 train to 238th; the bakery is two blocks west of the subway.

Worth the queue: Plain cheesecake

Eileen's Special Cheesecake ★ 4.3

Bakery$nolitaMon-Sat 09:00-21:00, Sun 11:00-19:00Walk-in onlyMini cheesecakes

Eileen Avezzano has baked mini cheesecakes on Cleveland Place in Nolita, New York City since 1975. Open mon-sat 09:00-21:00, sun 11:00-19:00.

Tip: The plain or strawberry are the originals. The Oreo and the salted caramel are the indulgent picks; share two.

Worth the queue: Strawberry mini cheesecake

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