Modern Israeli$$$uptown
Shaya in New Orleans is the Magazine Street modern Israeli room that won James Beard Best New Restaurant in 2016, now under BRG Hospitality with its wood-fired pita oven still anchoring service.
Signature: Wood-fired pita, Lamb shawarma
Order: The wood-fired pita with hummus. Then the lamb shawarma.
Tip: Founder Alon Shaya now runs Saba up the road at 5757 Magazine; both rooms are worth a visit.
Modern Israeli$$$uptown
Saba in New Orleans is Alon Shaya's 2018 Magazine Street follow-up to Shaya, a modern Israeli room at Nashville Avenue with the whipped feta and whole roasted cauliflower he made famous.
Signature: Lutenitsa with whipped feta, Whole-roasted cauliflower
Order: The whole roasted cauliflower with whipped feta. Then the lamb ragu hummus.
Tip: Brunch on Sundays runs the shakshuka and matzo ball brioche French toast; book a fortnight ahead.
N7 ★ 4.5
French Japanese bistro$$$bywater
N7 in New Orleans is the Bywater French wine bar behind an unmarked fence on Montegut Street from Aaron Walker and Yuki Yamaguchi, with French bistro plates and a Japanese accent.
Signature: Tinned-fish plate, Steak frites with Bordelaise
Order: The tinned-fish board with bread, then steak frites with Bordelaise.
Tip: Reservations are tight; the garden seating opens at 17:00 and walk-ins land best on weeknights.
Cajun$$$$uptown
Mosquito Supper Club in New Orleans is Melissa Martin's Uptown communal-table Cajun room in an 1898 cottage on Dryades Street, with a single fixed Cajun menu and a Bayou Lafourche cookbook lineage.
Signature: Communal Cajun set menu, Crab stew
Order: The crab stew and shrimp boulettes; the menu is fixed and arrives in courses.
Tip: Reservations open the first of the month for the next month. Book the moment they appear.
Gulf seafood$$$warehouse-district
Peche in New Orleans is Ryan Prewitt, Stephen Stryjewski and Donald Link's James Beard winning Gulf seafood room on Magazine and Julia, with a wood-fired grill and a daily whole fish.
Signature: Whole grilled fish, Smoked tuna dip
Order: The smoked tuna dip to start, then a whole grilled fish to share for the table.
Tip: The bar walks in best at 17:30; the kitchen sends the same menu and the oyster service is tighter.
Creole Acadian$$$carrollton-riverbend
Brigtsen's in New Orleans is Frank and Marna Brigtsen's 1986 Victorian-cottage Creole Acadian room near the streetcar terminus, a Paul Prudhomme alumnus with shell-bean stews still on the menu.
Signature: Shell-bean and crawfish stew, Filé gumbo
Order: The shell-bean and crawfish stew, on the menu since 1986. Then the file gumbo.
Tip: Dinner only, Tuesday to Saturday from 17:00. The whole restaurant is one cottage; book ahead.