Modern American bistro$$$eado
Theodore Rex in Houston is Justin Yu's bistro on Nance Street, the warmer sequel to his now-closed Oxheart, with a tomato toast and seasonal blackboard menu that locals book first.
Signature: Tomato toast, Pork chop with grits
Order: The tomato toast in summer. The pork chop with grits the rest of the year.
Tip: The bar is walk-in only and the best seat. Get there at 5pm Thursday or Sunday.
Oaxacan Mexican$$$downtown
Xochi in Houston is Hugo Ortega's Oaxacan room on the ground floor of the Marriott Marquis downtown, with seven moles, masa-based tlayudas and a James Beard chef behind it all.
Signature: Mole negro, Tlayuda
Order: The mole negro tasting; seven moles in one flight is the menu's defining gesture.
Tip: Sit at the masa bar to watch the corn pressed fresh. The lunch tasting is the value at $48.
Regional Mexican$$$montrose
Hugo's in Houston is Hugo Ortega's regional Mexican room on Westheimer since 2002, with cochinita pibil, chiles en nogada in season and a chocolate-from-the-stone tableside service.
Signature: Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada (in season)
Order: The cochinita pibil. The chiles en nogada when it hits the menu in August and September.
Tip: Sunday brunch buffet is the city standard. Reserve the noon slot; it sells out by Tuesday.
Japanese sushi$$$$montrose
Uchi Houston is the Montrose outpost of Tyson Cole's James Beard-winning sushi house, on Westheimer since 2012, with a hama chili and untraditional Japanese plates by the bar.
Signature: Hama chili, Maguro sashimi and goat cheese
Order: Hama chili and the maguro sashimi with goat cheese, both signatures from the Austin original.
Tip: Sit at the sushi bar, never the dining room, and order omakase off-menu. Sushi happy hour 5 to 6:30 is the city's best deal.
Italian$$$montrose
Da Marco in Houston is Marco Wiles's Italian dining room on Westheimer since 2002, with hand-rolled pastas, a salt-baked branzino and Houston's most serious Italian wine list.
Signature: Tagliatelle al ragu, Branzino al sale
Order: Whatever pasta is on the daily blackboard. The salt-baked branzino if available.
Tip: Sit upstairs in the smaller dining room. The downstairs window seats are the loudest in the house.
New American bistro$$eado
Nancy's Hustle in Houston is the EaDo bistro on Polk Street since 2017, with the much-copied Nancy Cakes cornbread, a strong natural-wine list and a counter open until 11pm.
Signature: Nancy Cakes (cornbread), Burger
Order: Nancy Cakes (cornbread with bottarga butter) and the burger. The pasta of the day is always good.
Tip: Bar seats are first-come; the dining room takes reservations. Sunday burger night still draws a line.