Italian, wood-fired$$the-heights
Coltivare in Houston is Ryan Pera's Italian room on White Oak Drive since 2014, with wood-fired pizzas, on-site vegetable gardens and salads pulled minutes before they hit the table.
Signature: Wood-fired pizza, Garden salad from the on-site beds
Order: The Margherita pizza and whichever pasta is on the day's board. Salads come from the back garden.
Tip: Walk-in only. Get there before 6pm or be ready to wait at the bar for 90 minutes.
Viet-Cajun seafood$$bellaire-asiatown
Crawfish and Noodles in Houston is Trong Nguyen's Viet-Cajun room on Bellaire Boulevard since 2008, the country's defining Viet-Cajun crawfish boil with lemongrass garlic butter.
Signature: Viet-Cajun crawfish boil, Blue crab in garlic butter
Order: A pound of crawfish (in season Feb to June), the blue crab in house garlic butter, salt-pepper shrimp.
Tip: Crawfish are seasonal. October to January menu pivots to blue crab and Dungeness. Cash card surcharges apply.
Sichuan Chinese$$bellaire-asiatown
Mala Sichuan Bistro in Houston is the Bellaire Boulevard Sichuan room since 2011, with serious mapo tofu, dan dan noodles and a chilli-oil dumpling order Michelin recognised in 2024.
Signature: Mapo tofu, Dan dan noodles
Order: Mapo tofu, dan dan noodles, the dry-fried green beans and the chilli-oil dumplings.
Tip: Order at least one dish from the cold appetiser cabinet near the door. The marinated beef is the menu's quiet star.
Pakistani and Indian$$hillcroft
Himalaya Restaurant in Houston is Kaiser Lashkari's Pakistani-and-Indian room on the Southwest Freeway since 2004, with lamb biryani, hunter's beef and Anthony Bourdain provenance.
Signature: Lamb biryani, Hunter's beef
Order: Lamb biryani (slow-cooked dum style), hunter's beef and one of the chai-glazed lamb chops.
Tip: Lunch buffet runs weekdays and is the value entry. BYOB; the corner liquor store across Hillcroft is the run.
Malaysian$$spring-branch
Phat Eatery in Katy (west of Houston) is the late Alex Au-Yeung's Malaysian street food room in Katy Asian Town, with beef rendang, roti canai and a Buckthorn Place second location in The Woodlands.
Signature: Beef rendang, Roti canai
Order: Beef rendang, roti canai with curry chicken dip, char kway teow.
Tip: Katy is 30 miles west of downtown Houston; combine the trip with H Mart and Asian Town. Lunch is quieter.
Modern Indian$$rice-village-upper-kirby
Pondicheri in Houston is Anita Jaisinghani's modern Indian room at WestAve on Kirby Drive since 2011, with masala omelette breakfasts, thali plates and a Bake Lab pastry counter upstairs.
Signature: Masala omelette and roti, Thali plates
Order: Masala omelette with roti at breakfast. The thali plate at dinner. The Bake Lab's masala chai bun for the road.
Tip: Breakfast (7am to 11am) is the lesser-known peak. The thali changes daily; ask what is on it before you order.