MexicanChef Hugo Ortega$$$$Tasting menu $115, a la carte $60 to $90Book 2 to 3 weeks ahead
Xochi in Houston is Hugo Ortega's Oaxacan dining room at the Marriott Marquis downtown, a James Beard winner with seven moles, a tasting menu and a masa bar.
Order: Mole tasting flight. The chichilo (one of the harder moles). House-made tlayuda.
Tip: Lunch tasting at $48 is the value entry. Sit at the masa bar to watch the corn ground fresh.
SteakhouseChef Pappas family$$$$$80 to $180 a la carteBook 2 weeks ahead
Pappas Bros Steakhouse Downtown is the Houston steakhouse on McKinney Street with a 4,000-bottle James Beard outstanding wine program, dry-aged ribeyes.
Order: 28-day dry-aged bone-in ribeye. Creamed spinach. Ask the sommelier for a glass of older Bordeaux.
Tip: The wine list is unrivalled in the city. The Galleria-area location on Westheimer serves the same menu but with a busier room.
SteakhouseChef Ronnie Killen$$$$$80 to $200 a la carteBook 4 to 6 weeks Saturday ahead
Killen's Steakhouse in Pearland is Ronnie Killen's white-tablecloth steakhouse on West Broadway, with a 1,200-bottle wine tower, 44-Farms wagyu and dry-aged.
Order: The bone-in ribeye, dry-aged. Le Cordon Bleu mashed potatoes. The wagyu flight when offered.
Tip: Pearland is south of downtown Houston; 25 minutes drive. The bar serves the full menu and is easier than the dining room.
Cajun & CreoleChef Brennan family$$$$$70 to $120 a la carteBook 1 to 2 weeks ahead
Brennan's of Houston is the 1967 Texas Creole dining room on Smith Street, the New Orleans Brennan family's Houston outpost, with turtle soup.
Order: Turtle soup with sherry. Bananas Foster, flambeed tableside, to close. Pecan-crusted Gulf fish at dinner.
Tip: Sunday jazz brunch is the local routine. Reserve the courtyard if the temperature stays under 30C.
ItalianChef Marco Wiles$$$$$65 to $130 a la carteBook 2 weeks ahead
Da Marco in Houston is Marco Wiles's Italian dining room on Westheimer since 2002, with hand-rolled pastas, a salt-baked branzino and Houston's most serious.
Order: Whichever pasta is on the daily blackboard. Salt-baked branzino if it is on. Order one of the older Barolos.
Tip: The upstairs room is quieter and smaller. Closed Sunday and Monday.
SteakhouseChef Ford Fry$$$$$70 to $160 a la carteBook 2 weeks ahead
State of Grace in Houston is Ford Fry's River Oaks dining room on Westheimer, a Southern-and-steakhouse menu in a redesigned room of limewashed brick.
Order: A dozen Gulf oysters and the wood-grilled wagyu strip. The Gulf fish of the day on a Friday.
Tip: The bar serves the full menu and is the quickest seat at peak. Sunday brunch is the local routine.