SteakhouseChef Ronnie Killen$$$$$80 to $200 a la carteBook 4 to 6 weeks Saturday ahead
Killen's Steakhouse in Pearland is Ronnie Killen's white-tablecloth steakhouse on West Broadway, with a 1,200-bottle wine tower, 44-Farms wagyu and dry-aged.
Order: The bone-in ribeye, dry-aged. Le Cordon Bleu mashed potatoes. The wagyu flight when offered.
Tip: Pearland is south of downtown Houston; 25 minutes drive. The bar serves the full menu and is easier than the dining room.
Cajun & CreoleChef Brennan family$$$$$70 to $120 a la carteBook 1 to 2 weeks ahead
Brennan's of Houston is the 1967 Texas Creole dining room on Smith Street, the New Orleans Brennan family's Houston outpost, with turtle soup.
Order: Turtle soup with sherry. Bananas Foster, flambeed tableside, to close. Pecan-crusted Gulf fish at dinner.
Tip: Sunday jazz brunch is the local routine. Reserve the courtyard if the temperature stays under 30C.
ItalianChef Marco Wiles$$$$$65 to $130 a la carteBook 2 weeks ahead
Da Marco in Houston is Marco Wiles's Italian dining room on Westheimer since 2002, with hand-rolled pastas, a salt-baked branzino and Houston's most serious.
Order: Whichever pasta is on the daily blackboard. Salt-baked branzino if it is on. Order one of the older Barolos.
Tip: The upstairs room is quieter and smaller. Closed Sunday and Monday.
SteakhouseChef Ford Fry$$$$$70 to $160 a la carteBook 2 weeks ahead
State of Grace in Houston is Ford Fry's River Oaks dining room on Westheimer, a Southern-and-steakhouse menu in a redesigned room of limewashed brick.
Order: A dozen Gulf oysters and the wood-grilled wagyu strip. The Gulf fish of the day on a Friday.
Tip: The bar serves the full menu and is the quickest seat at peak. Sunday brunch is the local routine.
MexicanChef Hugo Ortega$$$$$50 to $90 a la carteBook 2 weeks ahead
Hugo's in Houston is Hugo Ortega's regional Mexican room on Westheimer since 2002, with cochinita pibil, chiles en nogada in season. Book 2 weeks ahead.
Order: Cochinita pibil. Chiles en nogada when in season (August to September). Tableside hot chocolate.
Tip: Sunday brunch buffet is the city standard. Reserve the noon slot; it sells out by Tuesday.
MediterraneanChef Felipe Riccio$$$$$185 to $245Book 3 to 4 weeks ahead
March in Houston is the Goodnight Hospitality tasting-menu room on Westheimer, chef Felipe Riccio's six- or nine-course Mediterranean menus rooted in one.
Order: The full nine-course menu with June Rodil's wine pairings. Anything less misses the regional arc.
Tip: The menu changes seasonally; ask which Mediterranean region you are eating before you book. Greece in spring tends to be the strongest.