Texas barbecue$$the-heights
Truth BBQ in Houston is Leonard Botello IV's Heights Boulevard smokehouse since 2019, with post-oak-smoked brisket regularly ranked on Texas Monthly's Top 50 list and a strawberry cake to close.
Signature: Brisket, Strawberry cake
Order: Brisket fatty. The strawberry cake (the legend of Truth). Pulled pork.
Tip: Wed to Sun lunch only until sold out, usually 2 to 3pm. Get there by 11am for brisket.
Italian, wood-fired$$the-heights
Coltivare in Houston is the Heights Italian room on White Oak Drive from Ryan Pera, with wood-fired pizzas, on-site vegetable gardens and a small-plates menu open evenings only.
Signature: Wood-fired Margherita pizza, Garden salad
Order: Margherita pizza, whichever pasta is on the daily board, the salad from the back garden.
Tip: Walk-in only, party of six max. Get there before 6pm or wait an hour.
New American bistro$$eado
Nancy's Hustle in Houston is the EaDo bistro on Polk Street since 2017, with Nancy Cakes cornbread, a much-copied burger and a serious natural-wine list.
Signature: Nancy Cakes (cornbread with bottarga butter), Burger
Order: Nancy Cakes and the burger. Pasta of the day. Order from the by-the-glass list.
Tip: Bar seats are first-come, dining room takes reservations. The patio in mild weather is the play.
Sichuan Chinese$$bellaire-asiatown
Mala Sichuan Bistro in Houston is the Bellaire Boulevard Sichuan room since 2011, a Michelin-recommended kitchen with serious mapo tofu, dan dan noodles and chilli-oil dumplings.
Signature: Mapo tofu, Dan dan noodles
Order: Mapo tofu, dan dan noodles, dry-fried green beans, chilli-oil dumplings.
Tip: Cold appetiser cabinet near the door has marinated beef and tendon that are the menu's quiet stars.
Malaysian$$spring-branch
Phat Eatery in Katy (west of Houston) is the Malaysian street food kitchen in Katy Asian Town from the late Alex Au-Yeung, with beef rendang, roti canai and char kway teow.
Signature: Beef rendang, Roti canai
Order: Beef rendang, roti canai with curry chicken dip, char kway teow.
Tip: Katy is 30 miles west of Houston. Combine with H Mart and Asian Town. The Woodlands second location is the other option.
Modern Indian$$rice-village-upper-kirby
Pondicheri in Houston is Anita Jaisinghani's modern Indian room at WestAve on Kirby Drive since 2011, with masala omelette breakfasts, thali plates and a Bake Lab counter upstairs.
Signature: Masala omelette and roti, Thali plates
Order: Masala omelette and roti at breakfast. The thali plate at dinner. The Bake Lab's chai bun for the road.
Tip: Breakfast (7am to 11am) is the lesser-known peak. The thali changes daily; ask first.