Italian$$$lodo
Tavernetta in Denver is Bobby Stuckey and Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson's regional Italian dining room in Union Station's Crawford Hotel, the sister to Boulder's Frasca since 2017.
Signature: Hand-cut pastas, Wood-grilled lamb, Tagliatelle al ragu
Order: The tagliatelle al ragu and any whole-fish course; the pasta is made by hand each morning by Carlo Alberto Mascia.
Tip: Book the chef's counter for a view of the pasta station. The Italian-only wine list runs deep on Friuli and Piemonte growers.
Italian (Friulian)$$$$boulder
Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder is Bobby Stuckey and Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson's James Beard-winning Friulian dining room since 2004, the kitchen that started the Tavernetta program.
Signature: Friulian tasting menu, Frico caldo, Cjarsons
Order: The four-course Friuli tasting menu and the frico caldo to start; Stuckey's wine pairings are the room's most distinctive feature.
Tip: Boulder is a 40-minute drive from Denver. Frasca Caffe next door runs walk-in pasta and aperitivo without a reservation.
Japanese (sushi)$$$south-pearl
Sushi Den in Denver is Toshi and Yasu Kizaki's South Pearl sushi house since 1984, with fish flown daily from Toyosu Market in Tokyo via the brothers' Japanese supply chain.
Signature: Omakase, Negi hamachi, Toro sashimi
Order: Sit at the bar and order omakase; the chefs cut by request and the negi hamachi has been the room signature for decades.
Tip: Reservations open online 30 days out and disappear in hours. The walk-in policy at the bar still works if you arrive by 5 pm.
Modern Latin American$$highland
Mister Oso in Denver is Blake Edmunds's playful Latin American room in RiNo, with masa tacos, Caribbean cocktails and a wood-grill program built around Colorado proteins.
Signature: Octopus al pastor, Chicharron tacos, Steak frites tacos
Order: The octopus al pastor on a fresh blue-corn tortilla; the masa is milled in-house and the octopus is grilled in slick chile oil.
Tip: The patio runs three rounds of seating on summer nights; the bar walks in if you arrive by 5:30 pm. The taro chips are bottomless if you ask.
Mediterranean$$$downtown
Rioja in Denver is Jennifer Jasinski's James Beard-winning Mediterranean dining room on Larimer Square since 2004, a flagship of the Crafted Concepts group with Spanish, Italian and North African plates.
Signature: Goat cheese ravioli, Artichoke tortelloni, Olive oil cake
Order: The artichoke tortelloni and the goat cheese ravioli, both on the menu since opening, and the olive oil cake to finish.
Tip: Sunday brunch with bottomless mimosas is a Larimer Square institution. The chef's tasting menu changes weekly and is the best way to see Jasinski's range.
Modern American (farm-to-table)$$$lodo
Mercantile Dining and Provision in Denver is Alex Seidel's farm-to-table dining room and provisions counter in Union Station, sourced from his Fruition Farms in Larkspur.
Signature: Roasted Colorado trout, Pork loin with sweetbreads, Charcuterie board
Order: The Colorado trout from the live-fire hearth and the house-made charcuterie board, cured from Seidel's farm pork.
Tip: The market counter sells the kitchen's bread, charcuterie and produce; the morning espresso bar is the city's best Union Station coffee.
