Japanese (sushi)$$$south-pearl
Sushi Den in Denver is Toshi and Yasu Kizaki's South Pearl sushi house since 1984, with fish flown daily from Toyosu Market in Tokyo via the brothers' Japanese supply chain.
Signature: Omakase, Negi hamachi, Toro sashimi
Order: Sit at the bar and order omakase; the chefs cut by request and the negi hamachi has been the room signature for decades.
Tip: Reservations open online 30 days out and disappear in hours. The walk-in policy at the bar still works if you arrive by 5 pm.
Modern Latin American$$highland
Mister Oso in Denver is Blake Edmunds's playful Latin American room in RiNo, with masa tacos, Caribbean cocktails and a wood-grill program built around Colorado proteins.
Signature: Octopus al pastor, Chicharron tacos, Steak frites tacos
Order: The octopus al pastor on a fresh blue-corn tortilla; the masa is milled in-house and the octopus is grilled in slick chile oil.
Tip: The patio runs three rounds of seating on summer nights; the bar walks in if you arrive by 5:30 pm. The taro chips are bottomless if you ask.
Mediterranean$$$downtown
Rioja in Denver is Jennifer Jasinski's James Beard-winning Mediterranean dining room on Larimer Square since 2004, a flagship of the Crafted Concepts group with Spanish, Italian and North African plates.
Signature: Goat cheese ravioli, Artichoke tortelloni, Olive oil cake
Order: The artichoke tortelloni and the goat cheese ravioli, both on the menu since opening, and the olive oil cake to finish.
Tip: Sunday brunch with bottomless mimosas is a Larimer Square institution. The chef's tasting menu changes weekly and is the best way to see Jasinski's range.
Modern American (farm-to-table)$$$lodo
Mercantile Dining and Provision in Denver is Alex Seidel's farm-to-table dining room and provisions counter in Union Station, sourced from his Fruition Farms in Larkspur.
Signature: Roasted Colorado trout, Pork loin with sweetbreads, Charcuterie board
Order: The Colorado trout from the live-fire hearth and the house-made charcuterie board, cured from Seidel's farm pork.
Tip: The market counter sells the kitchen's bread, charcuterie and produce; the morning espresso bar is the city's best Union Station coffee.
Modern Chinese$$$rino
Hop Alley in Denver is Tommy Lee's modern Chinese dining room on Larimer in RiNo since 2015, a Michelin Bib Gourmand that runs Sichuan and northern Chinese plates with Colorado proteins.
Signature: Mapo tofu, Cumin lamb noodles, Tea-smoked duck
Order: The cumin lamb noodles and the tea-smoked duck, both menu signatures since opening; the mapo tofu is the heat benchmark.
Tip: Book the bar counter to watch the wok station. Lee's bao counter Uncle is two blocks away if you want noodles after.
Tasting menu (East-meets-West)$$$$sunnyside
The Wolf's Tailor in Denver is Kelly Whitaker's tasting-menu room in Sunnyside since 2017, a James Beard Best Chef Mountain finalist running East-meets-West fire-cooked courses.
Signature: Multi-course tasting, Hand-cut noodles, Live-fire course
Order: The chef's tasting menu only; a la carte is not offered. The hand-pulled noodle course and the live-fire dessert are the room benchmarks.
Tip: Tickets release on Tock 30 days ahead at 9 am. Walk-ins are taken at the bar counter when bookings cancel; arrive by 6 pm to chance it.