Modern Chinese$$$rino
Hop Alley in Denver is Tommy Lee's modern Chinese dining room on Larimer in RiNo since 2015, a Michelin Bib Gourmand that runs Sichuan and northern Chinese plates with Colorado proteins.
Signature: Mapo tofu, Cumin lamb noodles, Tea-smoked duck
Order: The cumin lamb noodles and the tea-smoked duck, both menu signatures since opening; the mapo tofu is the heat benchmark.
Tip: Book the bar counter to watch the wok station. Lee's bao counter Uncle is two blocks away if you want noodles after.
Tasting menu (East-meets-West)$$$$sunnyside
The Wolf's Tailor in Denver is Kelly Whitaker's tasting-menu room in Sunnyside since 2017, a James Beard Best Chef Mountain finalist running East-meets-West fire-cooked courses.
Signature: Multi-course tasting, Hand-cut noodles, Live-fire course
Order: The chef's tasting menu only; a la carte is not offered. The hand-pulled noodle course and the live-fire dessert are the room benchmarks.
Tip: Tickets release on Tock 30 days ahead at 9 am. Walk-ins are taken at the bar counter when bookings cancel; arrive by 6 pm to chance it.
Tasting menu$$$$rino
Beckon in Denver is Duncan Holmes's 18-seat chef's counter on Larimer in RiNo since 2018, a Michelin-recognised tasting room behind sister bistro Call.
Signature: Multi-course chef's counter tasting, Seasonal Colorado tasting, Wine pairing
Order: The tasting menu only; one seating per night. Pair with the Vermouth-and-Vinous Vines flight; the wine list is the city's most adventurous.
Tip: Tickets release one month out at 12 noon on a Wednesday via Tock; sell out in minutes. Try the bar at Call next door for walk-ins.
French bistro$$$downtown
Bistro Vendome in Denver is Jennifer Jasinski's Larimer Square French bistro since 2003, with a courtyard patio and a menu of canonical bistro plates from Paris to Lyon.
Signature: Steak frites, Bouillabaisse, Duck confit
Order: The steak frites with bearnaise and the duck confit, both menu mainstays since opening, plus a glass of Loire Sauvignon.
Tip: The courtyard is one of Larimer Square's best-kept patios. Brunch on Sunday with the French toast is the room's busiest service.
Japanese-Peruvian$$$$cherry-creek
Matsuhisa in Denver is Nobu Matsuhisa's Cherry Creek dining room since 2009, the chef's third Colorado location with the canonical Nobu-style Japanese-Peruvian menu.
Signature: Black cod miso, Yellowtail jalapeno, Omakase
Order: The black cod miso and yellowtail jalapeno are the Matsuhisa signatures; book the chef's table for the full omakase.
Tip: The sushi bar pours through a separate booking link from the dining room. The Aspen location is the chef's original; Denver is the day-trip Front Range version.
Modern Mexican$$$downtown
Tamayo in Denver is Richard Sandoval's modern Mexican dining room on Larimer Square since 2001, a rooftop patio anchor for upscale tacos, ceviche and tequila flights.
Signature: Tableside guacamole, Cochinita pibil, Mole negro
Order: The tableside guacamole and the cochinita pibil with Yucatan-style achiote; flight of mezcal to pair.
Tip: The rooftop patio runs March through October with mountain views; book it three weeks ahead. The bar is open for walk-ins.