Italian$$$highlandTue-Thu 15:00-20:00, Fri-Sat 11:30-20:30, Sun 15:00-20:00
Spuntino in Denver is Cindhura Reddy's Highland neighbourhood trattoria and gelateria since 2012, a tight pasta-and-aperitivo room with house-made gelato.
Signature: Hand-cut pastas, Burrata, Gelato
Order: The agnolotti and the ricotta gnudi.
Tip: The bar pours Italian aperitivos and a tight natural-wine list. Gelato counter is open to walk-ins after dinner service.
Italian$$$lodo
Tavernetta in Denver is Bobby Stuckey and Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson's regional Italian dining room in Union Station's Crawford Hotel, the sister.
Signature: Hand-cut pastas, Wood-grilled lamb, Tagliatelle al ragu
Order: The tagliatelle al ragu and any whole-fish course.
Tip: Book the chef's counter for a view of the pasta station. The Italian-only wine list runs deep on Friuli and Piemonte growers.
Italian$$$$boulder
Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder is Bobby Stuckey and Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson's James Beard-winning Friulian dining room since 2004, the kitchen.
Signature: Friulian tasting menu, Frico caldo, Cjarsons
Order: The four-course Friuli tasting menu and the frico caldo to start.
Tip: Boulder is a 40-minute drive from Denver. Frasca Caffe next door runs walk-in pasta and aperitivo without a reservation.
Japanese sushi$$$south-pearl
Sushi Den in Denver is Toshi and Yasu Kizaki's South Pearl sushi house since 1984, with fish flown daily from Toyosu Market in Tokyo via the brothers'.
Signature: Omakase, Negi hamachi, Toro sashimi
Order: Sit at the bar and order omakase.
Tip: Reservations open online 30 days out and disappear in hours. The walk-in policy at the bar still works if you arrive by 5 pm.
Latin American$$highland
Mister Oso in Denver is Blake Edmunds's playful Latin American room in RiNo, with masa tacos, Caribbean cocktails and a wood-grill program built around.
Signature: Octopus al pastor, Chicharron tacos, Steak frites tacos
Order: The octopus al pastor on a fresh blue-corn tortilla.
Tip: The patio runs three rounds of seating on summer nights; the bar walks in if you arrive by 5:30 pm. The taro chips are bottomless if you ask.
Mediterranean$$$downtown
Rioja in Denver is Jennifer Jasinski's James Beard-winning Mediterranean dining room on Larimer Square since 2004, a flagship of the Crafted Concepts group.
Signature: Goat cheese ravioli, Artichoke tortelloni, Olive oil cake
Order: The artichoke tortelloni and the goat cheese ravioli, both on the menu since opening.
Tip: Sunday brunch with bottomless mimosas is a Larimer Square institution. The chef's tasting menu changes weekly and is the best way to see Jasinski's range.