New American is where much of Dallas's contemporary cooking lives, often in chef-owned neighborhood rooms. Encina, chef Matt Balke's Bishop Arts restaurant in the former Bolsa space, runs Southern-inflected cooking and a thoughtful wine list, while Gemma in Knox-Henderson holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand for a menu that borrows from France and Italy. LOCAL Restaurant, tucked inside the 1908 Boyd Hotel building in Deep Ellum, has long been one of the city's quiet benchmarks under chef-owner Tracy Miller.