$$$$Cocktail bar
Kumiko in Chicago is Julia Momose's West Loop Japanese cocktail bar on Lake Street, with a kaiseki-leaning food menu and a James Beard Outstanding Bar.
TipBook the chef's-counter omakase pairing if you have a long evening; otherwise the bar Toki highball is the showcase order.
$$$$Wine bar
The Loyalist in Chicago is the wood-bar room downstairs from Smyth on Ada Street, an unfussy wine bar from John and Karen Shields with the cult dirty burger.
TipWalk up to the bar at 16:55. The dirty burger is on the bar menu from open; it leaves the kitchen rare and griddle-pressed.
$$$$Cocktail bar
The Office in Chicago is the speakeasy beneath The Aviary on Fulton Market: a 15-seat reservation-only basement room with rare-spirit flights and caviar.
TipBook six weeks out via the Tock system. The Pappy Van Winkle pour is the room's biggest draw.
$$$$Modern NordicWest Loop
Elske in Chicago is David and Anna Posey's Danish-influenced Michelin-starred Randolph Street kitchen, a married chef-team plate with restraint and clean.
OrderThe duck-liver tart, an opening course that has stayed on the menu since 2016.
TipThe Aquavit pairings are the room's secret weapon. Ask Anna for the by-the-glass walk.
$$$$New AmericanWest Loop
The Publican in Chicago is Paul Kahan's Fulton Market mead-hall, opened 2008, anchored by the heritage pork chop and a daily oyster list of 20 to 30.
OrderPublican-style pork chop for the table, with one of the ham flights.
TipThe walk-in counter at the bar is first-come, first-served and turns over fast. Aim for 17:30 if you cannot book.
$$$$Cocktail bar
The Aviary in Chicago is the Achatz-Kokonas modernist cocktail bar above Next on Fulton Market, with edible-ice cocktails and a service script all its own.
TipBook the In the Rocks cocktail (cracked-ice presentation tableside); it is the room's defining drink and the value-per-dollar move.
$$$$Cocktail bar
Au Cheval in Chicago is the West Loop diner-bar on Randolph with one of the country's most-mentioned cheeseburgers, plus duck-heart hash and a bar-front.
TipThe bar accepts walk-up only; sit there if you can't book. The single-with-egg cheeseburger is the menu's defining order.
$$$$Wine bar
Maria's Packaged Goods in Chicago is the Bridgeport corner store-and-bar on 31st Street: hybrid bottle shop, neighbourhood pub and Kimski Korean-Polish.
TipKimski's kimchi pierogi and the Marz brewery beers on the back wall are the room's defining pairing.
$$$$MediterraneanWest Loop
avec in Chicago is the cedar-walled Mediterranean wine bar next to Blackbird's old space, with the dates-wrapped-in-bacon plate that has run since 2003.
OrderThe chorizo-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates; on the menu since opening for good reason.
TipThe communal seating means a walk-up at 17:00 usually beats waiting for a table. Bring a friend who likes elbows.
$$$$ItalianWest Loop
Monteverde in Chicago is Sarah Grueneberg's Italian dining room on Madison Street in the West Loop, a pasta-led menu with all the dough rolled in the open.
OrderThe cacio whey pepe; the kitchen ferments its own pecorino whey for the sauce.
TipSit at the pasta-counter seats if they're on offer. The kitchen rolls dough at eye level.
$$$$Modern AmericanLincoln Park
Boka in Chicago is Lee Wolen's Michelin-starred dining room beside Alinea on Halsted, with a quiet garden courtyard and a roast-chicken-for-two worth.
OrderThe roasted chicken for two, brined two days; it leaves the kitchen carved.
TipBook the garden room in summer. It is one of the prettiest outdoor dining rooms in the city.
$$$$New AmericanWest Loop
Girl & the Goat in Chicago is Stephanie Izard's Randolph Street wood-fire kitchen since 2010, with the pig face plate that came back when Bravo's Top Chef.
OrderThe wood-fire pig face; the green beans with cashews and fish sauce vinaigrette.
TipIf the dining room is fully booked, walk up to the bar at 17:00 for the same menu and no wait most weeknights.
$$$$Cocktail bar
Billy Sunday in Chicago is Matthias Merges's Logan Square cocktail bar on Logan Boulevard, with a 100-bottle amaro back bar and Prohibition-era American.
TipOrder off the amaro list, not the cocktail list, if you want the real value. The lesser-known Italians cost the same as a beer.
$$$$Cocktail bar
Longman & Eagle in Chicago is the Logan Square whiskey bar-and-restaurant on Kedzie Avenue, with a 250-bottle whiskey list, a Michelin Bib Gourmand and inn.
TipThe Bib Gourmand dinner room is the right pairing for the whiskey list. Sit at the bar if walk-up and order the wild-boar sloppy joe.
$$$$Cocktail bar
The Green Mill in Chicago is the Uptown jazz club on Broadway since 1907, an Al Capone hangout in the 1920s, with live jazz seven nights a week and a $10.
TipThe Sunday night Uptown Poetry Slam (open mic, 21:00) is the original poetry slam since 1986, hosted by Marc Smith.
$$$$Regional MexicanRiver North
Frontera Grill in Chicago is Rick Bayless's 1987 Clark Street Mexican dining room beside Topolobampo, the kitchen that brought regional Mexican.
OrderCarne asada with handmade tortillas; the cochinita pibil if the Yucatan menu is running.
TipWalk in at 17:00 on a weekday for the bar; the booths fill by 18:30 most nights.
$$$$Cocktail bar
Matchbox in Chicago is the four-foot-wide West Town cocktail bar on Milwaukee Avenue, a 30-seat triangle serving stiff classic cocktails since 1995.
TipOrder an Old Fashioned. The slim bartender pour is the house standard; do not ask for it differently.
$$$$Wine bar
Webster's Wine Bar in Chicago is the long-running natural-wine bar that moved to Logan Square on Milwaukee Avenue in 2014, with a 200-bottle list.
TipThe Monday-night flights are themed around a single region; the next-day discount on full bottles is a real value pull.
$$$$ItalianRiver North
Gene & Georgetti in Chicago is the 1941 Italian-American steakhouse under the elevated tracks at Franklin and Illinois, opened by Michelotti and Federighi.
OrderThe Garbage Salad; the bone-in ribeye; a Negroni at the bar before sitting down.
TipAsk for one of the back-room booths under the photo wall. The lighting is the same warm gold it has been for eighty years.
$$$$Cocktail bar
Sportsman's Club in Chicago is Heisler Hospitality's Ukrainian Village bar on Western Avenue, with a rotating cocktail menu, pop-up kitchens and a tree-lined.
TipThe back patio is the move from May through October. Walk-up; the indoor bar fills first on cold nights.
$$$$Cocktail bar
The Whistler in Chicago is the Logan Square cocktail bar on Milwaukee Avenue from Paul McGee, with nightly live music (jazz, soul) and rotating seasonal.
TipCover is $5 at the door for the back room music; the bar room is free. Wednesday is the strongest jazz night.
$$$$Cocktail bar
Queen Mary Tavern in Chicago is the Wicker Park cocktail bar on Division Street with a maritime theme, navy-blue panels and a fish-and-chips counter.
TipThe fish-and-chips kitchen opens at 17:00 from the back room; the bar opens an hour earlier for cocktails only.
$$$$Wine bar
Rootstock in Chicago is Humboldt Park's neighbourhood natural-wine bar on California Avenue since 2011, with a small-producer list and a strong charcuterie.
TipThe kitchen runs late; the burger and pork-rillette plate are the late-night moves once the cheese case thins.
$$$$Wine barLogan Square
Diversey Wine in Logan Square is the natural-wine shop and bar next door to Cellar Door Provisions on Diversey Avenue, with rotating skin-contact pours.