Hickory-smoked pork shoulder pulled into shreds and plated with slaw, beans and white bread, the Tennessee valley barbecue default served in Chattanooga's picnic cafes at the mountain's foot.
Pork shoulder is upland South barbecue orthodoxy, and Chattanooga sits on the seam between Memphis-style sandwiches, Georgia sauces and Alabama picnic plates. The city's version is unfussy: smoked shoulder pulled to order, a vinegar-edged tomato sauce, slaw that goes on the sandwich as often as beside it. St. Elmo's picnic cafes have served the format for decades to Incline Railway crowds, which is why the plate still comes with the feel of a church picnic.
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