Chinese dim sum$$$downtown
Lin Asian Bar in Austin is Ling Qi Wu's dim sum and Chinese kitchen on West 6th, a bright room with an open kitchen and Sunday dim-sum brunch carts.
Signature: Xiaolongbao, Wagyu dumplings, Pan-fried buns
Order: The xiaolongbao and the pan-fried beef buns; the dough is rolled in front of you.
Tip: The dim sum cart only runs Sunday brunch; lunch service Monday to Saturday is a la carte off the same kitchen.
Italian-American$$$downtown
Sammie's Italian in Austin is McGuire Moorman's downtown red-sauce room on West 6th, an old-school Italian-American card with veal and a martini bar.
Signature: Chicken parmesan, Veal saltimbocca, Tiramisu
Order: The veal saltimbocca and a Sammie's martini to start; pasta course is family-style.
Tip: The bar runs walk-in service; the dining room books a week out and goes faster on Friday nights.
French brasserie$$$east-austin
Justine's Brasserie in Austin is a late-night French brasserie in a 1937 East 5th cottage, owned by Justine Gilcrease since 2009 and open until midnight.
Signature: Steak frites, Escargot, Soupe a l'oignon
Order: The steak frites with bearnaise; the kitchen runs until 12am Friday and Saturday.
Tip: The Pagoda room and patio handle the smoking crowd; the Tuesday closure is firm, so plan around it.
Tex-Mex$$south-lamar
Matt's El Rancho in Austin is the Martinez family's South Lamar Tex-Mex room, opened in 1952 and home of the canonical Bob Armstrong queso dip.
Signature: Bob Armstrong dip, Enchiladas with chili gravy, Frozen margarita
Order: The Bob Armstrong dip and a frozen margarita; the dip was invented here for a state legislator in 1973.
Tip: The patio under the oaks is huge; arrive 6pm or after 9pm to dodge the 7-to-9 wait.
Modern Texas steakhouse$$$$downtown
Garrison in Austin is the Fairmont's Michelin-recommended steakhouse on Red River, a wood-and-fire room built on Texas beef and a Wine Spectator cellar.
Signature: Wood-fired ribeye, Tableside martini, Local-pecan pie
Order: The wood-fired ribeye, ordered medium rare, with the tableside Garrison Dirty Martini.
Tip: The bar runs walk-in cocktails and the same beef; book the dining room only for the full tasting flow.
Modern Japanese$$$$south-lamar
Uchi in Austin is Tyson Cole's James Beard-winning sushi room on South Lamar since 2003, the kitchen that codified modern Japanese on the south side of the river.
Signature: Hama chili, Maguro sashimi, Brussels sprouts
Order: The hama chili and the maguro sashimi, ordered before anything else.
Tip: Sit at the sushi bar; the omakase is built in real time and the chefs talk you through each piece.