Modern Texas steakhouse$$$$downtown
Garrison in Austin is the Fairmont's Michelin-recommended steakhouse on Red River, a wood-and-fire room built on Texas beef and a Wine Spectator cellar.
Signature: Wood-fired ribeye, Tableside martini, Local-pecan pie
Order: The wood-fired ribeye, ordered medium rare, with the tableside Garrison Dirty Martini.
Tip: The bar runs walk-in cocktails and the same beef; book the dining room only for the full tasting flow.
Modern Japanese$$$$south-lamar
Uchi in Austin is Tyson Cole's James Beard-winning sushi room on South Lamar since 2003, the kitchen that codified modern Japanese on the south side of the river.
Signature: Hama chili, Maguro sashimi, Brussels sprouts
Order: The hama chili and the maguro sashimi, ordered before anything else.
Tip: Sit at the sushi bar; the omakase is built in real time and the chefs talk you through each piece.
Modern Japanese$$$$rosedale
Uchiko in Austin is Tyson Cole's elevated farmhouse sushi room on North Lamar, the second of the Hai Hospitality kitchens and a Top Chef alumni line.
Signature: Wagyu sukiyaki, Hokkaido scallop, Yokai berry
Order: The Yokai berry course; it has been on the menu since opening for a reason.
Tip: Happy hour from 5 to 6pm at the bar runs a $5 sushi list; it is the cheapest way into the kitchen.
Modern American live-fire$$$$downtown
Hestia in Austin is Kevin Fink's Michelin-starred live-fire room downtown, built around a 20-foot custom hearth that anchors the open kitchen.
Signature: Whole-roasted duck, Wood-grilled scallop, Smoked beet tartare
Order: The whole-roasted duck for two, ordered at booking; the rest of the menu flexes around it.
Tip: The chef's counter on the hearth side is two booking-clicks deeper than the dining room and worth chasing.
Modern Southern$$$$downtown
Olamaie in Austin is Michael Fojtasek's Michelin-starred Southern dining room in a converted house near downtown, named for three generations of women in his family.
Signature: Buttermilk biscuits, Skillet cornbread, Boiled peanuts
Order: The off-menu biscuits with whipped honey butter, requested as soon as you sit down.
Tip: The four-course prix fixe is built with chef de cuisine Amanda Turner; vegetarian path is available on request.
Modern Mexican$$$downtown
Comedor in Austin is Philip Speer's modern Mexican room on the corner of Colorado and 5th, with an Olson Kundig design and a focus on sourcing through Texas farmers.
Signature: Bone-marrow tacos, Smoked-trout tostada, Mole negro
Order: The bone-marrow tacos with smoked butter and hoja santa-pecan gremolata.
Tip: The guillotine garage doors open in good weather; ask for the indoor-outdoor counter when you book.