French brasserie$$$east-austin
Justine's Brasserie in Austin is a late-night French brasserie in a 1937 East 5th cottage, owned by Justine Gilcrease since 2009 and open until midnight.
Signature: Steak frites, Escargot, Soupe a l'oignon
Order: The steak frites with bearnaise; the kitchen runs until 12am Friday and Saturday.
Tip: The Pagoda room and patio handle the smoking crowd; the Tuesday closure is firm, so plan around it.
Tex-Mex$$south-lamar
Matt's El Rancho in Austin is the Martinez family's South Lamar Tex-Mex room, opened in 1952 and home of the canonical Bob Armstrong queso dip.
Signature: Bob Armstrong dip, Enchiladas with chili gravy, Frozen margarita
Order: The Bob Armstrong dip and a frozen margarita; the dip was invented here for a state legislator in 1973.
Tip: The patio under the oaks is huge; arrive 6pm or after 9pm to dodge the 7-to-9 wait.
Modern Texas steakhouse$$$$downtown
Garrison in Austin is the Fairmont's Michelin-recommended steakhouse on Red River, a wood-and-fire room built on Texas beef and a Wine Spectator cellar.
Signature: Wood-fired ribeye, Tableside martini, Local-pecan pie
Order: The wood-fired ribeye, ordered medium rare, with the tableside Garrison Dirty Martini.
Tip: The bar runs walk-in cocktails and the same beef; book the dining room only for the full tasting flow.
Modern Japanese$$$$south-lamar
Uchi in Austin is Tyson Cole's James Beard-winning sushi room on South Lamar since 2003, the kitchen that codified modern Japanese on the south side of the river.
Signature: Hama chili, Maguro sashimi, Brussels sprouts
Order: The hama chili and the maguro sashimi, ordered before anything else.
Tip: Sit at the sushi bar; the omakase is built in real time and the chefs talk you through each piece.
Modern Japanese$$$$rosedale
Uchiko in Austin is Tyson Cole's elevated farmhouse sushi room on North Lamar, the second of the Hai Hospitality kitchens and a Top Chef alumni line.
Signature: Wagyu sukiyaki, Hokkaido scallop, Yokai berry
Order: The Yokai berry course; it has been on the menu since opening for a reason.
Tip: Happy hour from 5 to 6pm at the bar runs a $5 sushi list; it is the cheapest way into the kitchen.
Modern American live-fire$$$$downtown
Hestia in Austin is Kevin Fink's Michelin-starred live-fire room downtown, built around a 20-foot custom hearth that anchors the open kitchen.
Signature: Whole-roasted duck, Wood-grilled scallop, Smoked beet tartare
Order: The whole-roasted duck for two, ordered at booking; the rest of the menu flexes around it.
Tip: The chef's counter on the hearth side is two booking-clicks deeper than the dining room and worth chasing.