hackneyMon-Sat 17:00-23:30
Liam Kelleher's natural-wine room on Lower Clapton Road in Hackney London, opened 2014, runs a wall-of-wine shop by day and an evening counter with a rotating chef residency.
Signature pour: Whatever Italian skin-contact white is on by the glass
Wine focus: Natural wine, all-region with strong Italian and French focus
Food: Small plates from a rotating chef-in-residence
Tip: Walk-up only. Tuesday-Thursday at 17:30 is the easy slot; Friday-Saturday queue 30 minutes for a counter seat.
hackneyTue-Sun 17:00-23:30
Michael Sager and Charlotte Wilde's bar on Hackney Road in east London, opened 2013, ran the bridge between London's old wine-bar scene and the natural-wine wave.
Signature pour: Whatever German Riesling is on by the glass
Wine focus: International natural and low-intervention wines
Food: Small plates and a famous grilled cheese sandwich
Tip: The grilled cheese sandwich is the marquee bar snack. Wednesday and Thursday nights run a £25 menu pairing.
peckhamWed-Sun 17:30-23:00
Bash Redford's wine bar atop the Peckham multistorey carpark in south London, opened 2018, runs Italian-leaning natural wines and small plates with a rooftop view of the city.
Signature pour: Whatever Italian skin-contact orange wine is on
Wine focus: Italian growers and natural-leaning
Food: Italian small plates
Tip: Walk-up only. Tuesday-Thursday from 17:30 walks in; Friday-Saturday queue runs to 90 minutes for the rooftop seats.
fitzroviaMon-Sat 12:00-23:00
Daniel Keeling and Mark Andrew's wine-magazine-meets-bistro on Lamb's Conduit Street in Bloomsbury London, opened 2015, runs serious old-world wines and a Modern European kitchen.
Signature pour: Whatever mature Burgundy is open by the glass
Wine focus: Burgundy, Loire and serious old-world classics
Food: Modern European dining-room menu
Tip: Lunchtime three-course is £45 with a glass. The Greek Street Soho sibling has longer hours and the same list.
clerkenwellMon-Sat 12:00-22:00
Will Lander's wine shop and bar next to Quality Chop House on Farringdon Road in Clerkenwell London, opened 2019, runs a focused natural-leaning Continental list with corkage at £15.
Signature pour: Whatever grower Champagne is on by the glass
Wine focus: European natural wines and grower Champagnes
Food: Sandwiches and small plates from the Quality Chop House team
Tip: Buy a bottle and drink it in the bar for £15 corkage. The lunch sandwich menu from Quality Chop House is half-price.
kenningtonTue-Sun 17:00-23:00
Sunny Hodge's neighbourhood wine bar on Brixton Road in Kennington London, opened 2017, runs a serious natural-wine list and Mediterranean snacks at counter and tables.
Signature pour: Whatever Spanish skin-contact white is on
Wine focus: Natural wines from small European growers
Food: Mediterranean small plates
Tip: Walk-up only Tue-Thu. Friday-Saturday books two weeks ahead. The wine focus is on growers Hodge knows personally.
