Braised pork leg stewed soft in a dark, five-spice and soy broth, sliced over rice with pickled greens, chilli-garlic vinegar and a soft-boiled egg.
Khao kha moo is a Thai-Chinese street staple that found its most famous home at Chiang Mai's Chang Phueak gate, where the goggle-and-cowboy-hat-wearing vendor known nationwide as the Cowboy Hat Lady turned a pork-leg cart into a pilgrimage. The pork leg is simmered for hours in a dark broth of soy, palm sugar, star anise and five spice until the meat and skin fall apart, then chopped over rice with pickled mustard greens, a sharp chilli-garlic vinegar and often a stewed egg. Cheap, rich and comforting, it is the classic Chiang Mai night-market dinner.
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