Kokotxa on Calle del Campanario in San Sebastian's Old Town, one Michelin star since 2010, takes its name from the hake-throat gland and runs Daniel Lopez's contemporary Basque tasting menu in a 30-cover room.
Must order: The Bidasoa tasting menu; the namesake kokotxas plate is on every menu.
Tip: Two services daily, 13:30 lunch and 20:30 dinner. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Book 10 days ahead through restaurantekokotxa.com.
Address: Calle del Campanario 11, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian, San Sebastián
Eme Be Garrote in San Sebastian's Ibaeta quarter is Martin Berasategui's Donostia room, one Michelin star, set in a former cider house with a contemporary Euskandinavian dining room.
Order: The tasting menu, or the txuleta of vaca vieja from the brasa; chocolate souffle to finish.
Tip: Half-portions available off the carte, so you can build a mini-tasting. Closed Sunday evening and Monday.
Mirador de Ulia at the summit of Monte Ulia in San Sebastian, third-generation chef Ruben Trincado's hilltop room, holds Michelin Plate recognition with tasting menus drawn from the blue-zones playbook.
Order: The chef's tasting; the hake-and-vegetable courses showcase Trincado's native Guipuzcoan ingredients.
Tip: Drive up the Ulia hill or get a taxi; the view at sunset is the room's reason. Book a window seat.
Galerna Jan Edan in San Sebastian's Gros, chef-partners Jorge Asenjo and Rebeca Barainca's modern Basque room since 2016, runs a focused tasting menu in a 30-cover dining room a block from Zurriola.
Order: The tasting menu; the bonito de Bermeo when in season, the hare loin in October.
Tip: Two services, lunch and dinner; both small. Book a fortnight ahead. The lunch menu del dia is the best value.
Casa 887 in San Sebastian's Gros, chef Antonio Belotti's room, blends Basque product with Asian and Latin American influences across a la carte and a 65-euro tasting menu the locals book midweek.
Order: The Basque-leaning tasting menu; the steak tartare; the carabineros.
Tip: Stone-basement room with neon lighting; lunch Wed to Sun, dinner Mon to Sat. Book through OpenTable.
The upstairs dining room of Casa Urola in San Sebastian's Old Town runs a Basque carte and tasting menu under chef Pablo Loureiro Rodil, a Michelin Guide listed kitchen above the canonical pintxos bar.
Order: The chuleton of vaca vieja from the grill; the kokotxas de merluza; the seasonal vegetable tasting.
Tip: Pintxos at the ground-floor counter or book upstairs for the full meal. Closed Mondays.
Arzak on Avenida Alcalde Jose Elosegi in San Sebastian is a 19th-century family mansion that has held three Michelin stars since 1989, the New Basque Cuisine flagship run by Juan Mari and Elena Arzak.
Order: The chef's tasting menu, anchored by the Laboratorio Arzak fermentations and the bonito with vino tinto.
Tip: Book through arzak.es 6 to 8 weeks ahead; the dining room sits 40. Closed Sundays, Mondays and late June plus most of November.
