Ranked by TableJourney editorial score.
Baby squid braised in their own ink with onions, garlic, green pepper and a splash of brandy, served over white rice. The Basque coast's dramatic dish, jet-black and intensely savoury.
Txipirones en su tinta (baby squid in their own ink) has been cooked along the Basque coast since at least the 17th century, with Bilbao and Donostia each claiming separate variants. The Donostia version is sweeter from a deeper sofrito. Casa Urola, Casa Vergara and Bartolo all run defensible versions on their daily menus.
4 editor picks for Txipirones en su Tinta in San Sebastián, ranked by editorial score. All San Sebastián signature dishes · Txipirones en su Tinta across every city.
Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian has cooked Basque market food since 1956, with pintxos downstairs and the dining room upstairs.
OrderThe kokotxas de merluza al pil pil downstairs first; then upstairs for the cigala and the chargrilled txuleta.
TipEat pintxos at the ground-floor counter or book upstairs for a full meal. The kokotxas are the surest order in the city.
Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.
OrderThe merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.
TipBook the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.
Casa Vergara on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town, since 1948, sits across from the Santa Maria del Coro basilica with the bacalao al pil pil pintxo.
OrderThe bacalao al pil pil pintxo from the counter; the tortilla pintxo by the slice.
TipFront terrace fills first; the church-step view is the standing-room reward. Open daily.
Bartolo on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps one of the longest pintxo display counters in the quarter, with a sit-down dining room serving.
OrderA tortilla pintxo from the counter; sit down for the steak or seared fish in the back.
TipCounter pintxos are pay-as-you-go; back room takes reservations through their site. Closed Tuesdays.
Txipirones en su Tinta makes more sense with someone from San Sebastián explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.
Guided tour · 3 hours
Visit the best pintxos and wine bars in San Sebastian on an exclusive tour. Discover some of the best local, family-run eateries and hidden gems.
Guided tour · 2.5 hours
Escape the crowds and dive into the authentic flavors of San Sebastian as you taste lesser-known favorites and iconic bites in the Centro neighborhood.
Guided tour · 3 hours
Spend an evening exploring five San Sebastián bars with a Michelin-trained chef. Enjoy 7 to 12 pintxos, txakoli and local drinks, plus dessert, a full dinner with stor...
