Baby squid braised in their own ink with onions, garlic, green pepper and a splash of brandy, served over white rice. The Basque coast's dramatic dish, jet-black and intensely savoury.
Txipirones en su tinta (baby squid in their own ink) has been cooked along the Basque coast since at least the 17th century, with Bilbao and Donostia each claiming separate variants. The Donostia version is sweeter from a deeper sofrito. Casa Urola, Casa Vergara and Bartolo all run defensible versions on their daily menus.
4 editor picks for Txipirones en su Tinta in San Sebastián, ranked by editorial score. All San Sebastián signature dishes · Txipirones en su Tinta across every city.
Casa Urola ★ 4.6
parte-vieja · Fermin Calbeton Kalea 20, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian
Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian has cooked Basque market food since 1956, with pintxos downstairs and the dining room upstairs.
Bodegon Alejandro ★ 4.5
parte-vieja · Fermin Calbeton Kalea 4, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian
Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.
Casa Vergara ★ 4.2
parte-vieja · Calle Mayor 21, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian
Casa Vergara on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town, since 1948, sits across from the Santa Maria del Coro basilica with the bacalao al pil pil pintxo.
Bartolo ★ 4.2
parte-vieja · Calle Fermin Calbeton 38, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian
Bartolo on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps one of the longest pintxo display counters in the quarter, with a sit-down dining room serving.