Ranked by TableJourney editorial score.
Kokotxas are the throat glands of hake, gelatinous wedges of cartilage and flesh that emulsify into the Basque pil pil sauce, cooked slowly in olive oil and garlic until the gelatin forms a green-tinted emulsion.
The kokotxa dish entered the Basque canon in the 19th-century fishing tradition of Pasaia and Hondarribia, where the throat glands (once discarded) were taken home by fishermen's families and cooked in garlic-and-oil cazuelas. The pil pil emulsion technique (shaking the pan to bind the hake gelatin into a green sauce) descends from the bacalao al pil pil tradition of the Basque cod trade. Casa Urola and Bodegon Alejandro in San Sebastian's Old Town anchor the canonical kokotxas service since the mid-20th century. Kokotxa restaurant on Calle Campanario takes its name from the dish and holds a Michelin star.
3 editor picks for Kokotxas de merluza al pil pil in San Sebastián, ranked by editorial score. All San Sebastián signature dishes · Kokotxas de merluza al pil pil across every city.
Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian has cooked Basque market food since 1956, with pintxos downstairs and the dining room upstairs.
OrderThe kokotxas de merluza al pil pil downstairs first; then upstairs for the cigala and the chargrilled txuleta.
TipEat pintxos at the ground-floor counter or book upstairs for a full meal. The kokotxas are the surest order in the city.
Kokotxa on Calle del Campanario in San Sebastian's Old Town, one Michelin star since 2010, takes its name from the hake-throat gland and runs Daniel.
OrderThe Bidasoa tasting menu; the namesake kokotxas plate is on every menu.
TipTwo services daily, 13:30 lunch and 20:30 dinner. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Book 10 days ahead through restaurantekokotxa.com.
Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.
OrderThe merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.
TipBook the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.
Kokotxas de merluza al pil pil makes more sense with someone from San Sebastián explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.
Guided tour · 3 hours
Visit the best pintxos and wine bars in San Sebastian on an exclusive tour. Discover some of the best local, family-run eateries and hidden gems.
Guided tour · 2.5 hours
Escape the crowds and dive into the authentic flavors of San Sebastian as you taste lesser-known favorites and iconic bites in the Centro neighborhood.
Guided tour · 3 hours
Spend an evening exploring five San Sebastián bars with a Michelin-trained chef. Enjoy 7 to 12 pintxos, txakoli and local drinks, plus dessert, a full dinner with stor...