History

Txipirones en su tinta (baby squid in their own ink) has been cooked along the Basque coast since at least the 17th century, with Bilbao and Donostia each claiming separate variants. The Donostia version is sweeter from a deeper sofrito. Casa Urola, Casa Vergara and Bartolo all run defensible versions on their daily menus.

Common allergens: Shellfish

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 40 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1kg baby squid (txipirones), cleaned with ink sacs reserved (or use 800g cleaned squid plus 4 sachets squid ink)
  • 3 large yellow onions, finely diced
  • 1 green pepper, finely diced
  • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 2 ripe tomatoes, grated
  • 100ml olive oil
  • 100ml brandy
  • 200ml dry white wine
  • 300ml fish stock or water
  • 30g day-old bread, crusts removed
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Cooked white rice (Bomba or Calasparra), to serve
  • Fried bread triangles, to garnish

Method

  1. Clean the squid by pulling the tentacles from the body; reserve the ink sacs in a small bowl with 100ml warm water. Slit the bodies open if they are large; leave small ones whole.
  2. Heat 80ml olive oil in a heavy casserole over medium-low heat. Add the diced onions, green pepper and a pinch of salt. Cook for 30 minutes, stirring often, until the sofrito is a deep mahogany jam. Do not rush this; the colour is the dish's foundation.
  3. Add the garlic for 1 minute. Stir in the grated tomato and the day-old bread. Cook 5 minutes.
  4. Pat the squid bodies and tentacles dry. Heat the remaining olive oil in a wide pan over high heat. Sear the squid 30 seconds per side. Pour in the brandy and carefully flame off.
  5. Tip the squid into the sofrito. Pour in the white wine and fish stock.
  6. Strain the ink mixture through a fine sieve into the pot, pressing the sacs. Add the reserved soaking water.
  7. Simmer covered for 30 to 40 minutes until the squid is tender enough to cut with the edge of a fork.
  8. Blend half the sauce in a blender if you want a silkier finish, or leave it rustic. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.
  9. Plate over white rice with fried bread triangles tucked alongside.

Tip from the editors. The sofrito is everything: 30 minutes minimum, 45 better. Black food looks scary on the plate; serve with bright white rice and fried bread.

Where to eat txipirones en su tinta

Txipirones en su Tinta in San Sebastián

Casa Urola ★ 4.5

Wine bar€€€Tue-Sun 12:00-15:30, 19:30-23:00

Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps one of the most complete Basque wine lists in the Old Town, with Txakoli on tap and a deep.

Signature pour: Itsasmendi Txakoli by the glass

Wine focus: Basque Txakoli, Rioja Alavesa and growers

Food: Pintxos counter and full dining room upstairs

Tip: Drink Txakoli at the counter; the dining room upstairs lets you settle in with a half-bottle of Rioja.

Fermin Calbeton Kalea 20, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian Book →

Casa Vergara ★ 4.2

Basque€

Casa Vergara on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town since 1948 turns out the bacalao al pil pil pintxo for under 4 euros, the canonical budget bite.

Try: Bacalao al pil pil pintxo with a glass of Txakoli

Tip: Terrace fills first; the pintxo plus Txakoli is under 6 euros.

Calle Mayor 21, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian

Bartolo ★ 4.2

Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja

Bartolo on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps one of the longest pintxo display counters in the quarter, with a sit-down dining room serving.

Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Brocheta

Order: A tortilla pintxo from the counter; sit down for the steak or seared fish in the back.

Tip: Counter pintxos are pay-as-you-go; back room takes reservations through their site. Closed Tuesdays.

Calle Fermin Calbeton 38, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian

Bodegon Alejandro ★ 4.5

Basque€€€parte-vieja

Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.

Signature: Merluza a la donostiarra, Txuleta, Tarta de queso

Order: The merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.

Tip: Book the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.

Fermin Calbeton Kalea 4, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian Book →

More cities are in research. Want txipirones en su tinta covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

Browse all dishes →