Bacalao al pil pil
Photo: jlastras · CC BY 2.0

Bacalao al pil pil is salt cod slowly cooked in olive oil with garlic until the gelatin from the skin emulsifies the oil into a creamy pale-yellow sauce, served in the earthenware cazuela it was cooked.

Bacalao al pil pil grew out of the Basque salt cod trade, which had Basque boats fishing the Newfoundland banks from the 16th century and Bilbao as the main Spanish port for the product. Bilbao legend dates the dish to 1836, when a merchant named Simon Gurtubay is said to have over-ordered salt cod just before the Carlist siege and the city cooked its way through the surplus with the garlic and oil still to hand; historians treat the story as folklore, since no shipping record supports it. The pil pil emulsion technique (the gentle shaking of the cazuela to bind the cod gelatin with garlic-infused oil) developed in Basque kitchens through the 19th century and remains the canonical preparation for salt cod across the Basque Country. Casa Vergara in San Sebastian's Old Town serves it as a pintxo; Bodegon Alejandro serves the full plate.

2 editor picks for Bacalao al pil pil in San Sebastián, ranked by editorial score. All San Sebastián signature dishes · Bacalao al pil pil across every city.

Also in: Bilbao.

Bodegon Alejandro ★ 4.5

€€€BasqueParte Vieja

Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.

OrderThe merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.

TipBook the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.

Casa Vergara ★ 4.2

€€Basque PintxosParte Vieja

Casa Vergara on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town, since 1948, sits across from the Santa Maria del Coro basilica with the bacalao al pil pil pintxo.

OrderThe bacalao al pil pil pintxo from the counter; the tortilla pintxo by the slice.

TipFront terrace fills first; the church-step view is the standing-room reward. Open daily.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Bacalao al pil pil makes more sense with someone from San Sebastián explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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