Madrileno taberna€€lavapies
Taberna Antonio Sanchez on Calle Meson de Paredes in Madrid's Lavapies has run since 1830, with bull-fighting paintings on the wall, the rabo de toro on the menu and the original zinc bar untouched.
Signature: Rabo de toro, Callos a la madrilena, Vino de Pitarra
Order: The rabo de toro with patatas and the callos a la madrilena. A jug of Vino de Pitarra to share.
Tip: Closed Sunday evenings and Mondays. Book three days ahead for the dining room; the bar takes walk-ins.
Bacalao, tapas€centro
Casa Labra near Puerta del Sol in Madrid has fried the bacalao rebozado in iron pans since 1860; the PSOE was founded upstairs in 1879. The cod is still the headline counter order.
Signature: Bacalao rebozado, Tajada de bacalao, Croquetas
Order: A pincho of bacalao rebozado (1.30 euros) and a tajada de bacalao (boiled and seasoned salt cod) with a cana.
Tip: Walk-in only at the bar; the inside dining room takes reservations for lunch. Cash strongly preferred.
Castilian asador€€€centro
Sobrino de Botin near Plaza Mayor in Madrid is the Guinness-certified oldest restaurant in the world, in business since 1725. The wood-fired oven roasts cochinillo segoviano daily.
Signature: Cochinillo asado, Cordero asado, Sopa de ajo
Order: The cochinillo asado roasted in the 1725 wood oven, then sopa de ajo with poached egg.
Tip: Book the cave dining room downstairs three weeks ahead. Lunch is calmer than dinner; the 14:00 service is the working-day local hour.
Madrileno taberna€€la-latina
Casa Lucio on Cava Baja in Madrid's La Latina has cooked the huevos rotos (broken eggs over fried potatoes) since 1974. The kings and presidents who eat here all order them.
Signature: Huevos rotos, Cocido madrileno, Solomillo
Order: The huevos rotos on a bed of fried potatoes, then a half-portion of the solomillo or the cocido.
Tip: Book ten days ahead by phone; Casa Lucio rarely takes online reservations. Ask for the downstairs dining room when you book.
Madrileno classic€€€centro
Lhardy on Carrera de San Jeronimo in Madrid has run the wood-panelled dining rooms above its Parisian-style charcuterie counter since 1839, serving the city's canonical cocido madrileno.
Signature: Cocido madrileno, Callos a la madrilena, Consome de ave
Order: The three-volcado cocido madrileno on a Tuesday or Thursday. From the counter, the consome from the silver urn.
Tip: The downstairs counter pours consome from the silver urn for 4 euros standing up; the cocido is upstairs by reservation.
Madrileno taberna€€centro
Casa Ciriaco on Calle Mayor in Madrid has served the gallina en pepitoria (hen in almond and saffron sauce) since 1929, three steps from where Alfonso XIII survived the 1906 wedding-day bomb.
Signature: Gallina en pepitoria, Callos a la madrilena, Perdiz estofada
Order: The gallina en pepitoria with rice and the callos a la madrilena. Half-bottle of house Valdepenas.
Tip: Closed Wednesdays. The Tuesday and Thursday cocido is the surest order; the dining room is full of regulars by 14:30.
