Patatas bravas
Photo: Francesc Fort · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

The dish travelled from 1950s Madrid bars where 'a la brava' meant 'rough' or 'spicy'. The Catalan version split the sauce in two: the white garlic-and-olive-oil aioli and the red paprika-and-vinegar salsa brava. Bar Tomas in Sarria, founded 1949, runs the canonical recipe with hand-cut cubes; the sauces are made from scratch every morning. Most Barcelona bars do their own version; the test is whether the potato is properly double-fried (soft inside, crisp outside) and whether the two sauces are made in-house. Tapas 24 by Carles Abellan does a notably good version; Bar del Pla in the Born plates them with the sauces dolloped on top.

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Common allergens: Egg

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 25 minTotal 40 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 800g floury potatoes, peeled, cut into 2.5cm cubes
  • 1.5L sunflower oil for frying
  • Sea salt
  • For the aioli: 2 garlic cloves, 1 egg yolk, 200ml olive oil, juice of half a lemon
  • For the brava sauce: 1 tin tomato passata
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • 1 tsp sweet paprika
  • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1 tsp cayenne
  • 1 garlic clove
  • 50ml olive oil

Method

  1. Make the brava: sauté minced garlic in olive oil, add paprikas and cayenne, then tomato passata, vinegar and salt. Simmer 15 minutes. Blitz smooth.
  2. Make the aioli: pound garlic and salt to a paste. Whisk in egg yolk, then drizzle in olive oil very slowly to form a mayonnaise. Finish with lemon.
  3. Heat the sunflower oil to 140°C. Blanch the potato cubes for 7 minutes until soft. Drain, rest 5 minutes.
  4. Heat the oil to 190°C. Fry the potatoes a second time for 3 minutes until deep golden and crisp.
  5. Drain, season with sea salt. Pile into a bowl, dollop both sauces on top, serve immediately.

Tip from the editors. Double-fry is non-negotiable. The first fry softens the inside; the second crisps the outside. Make both sauces ahead of time.

Where to eat patatas bravas

Patatas bravas in Barcelona

Bar Tomas ★ 4.5

€ Street foodSarria

Bar Tomas in Barcelona's Sarria has fried patatas bravas since 1949: a single canonical recipe of double-fried potatoes with the two-sauce ali-oli and red.

TryPatatas bravas

TipOpen daily until 22:00. The bravas with both sauces is the order; no reservations.

Tapas 24 ★ 4.4

€€ Catalan TapasEixample

Tapas 24 in Barcelona's Eixample is Carles Abellan's basement counter where the bikini truffle sandwich and the McFoie burger redefined Catalan tapas in 2006.

OrderThe bikini truffle sandwich and the patatas bravas.

TipOpen 09:00-midnight daily; no reservations. Aim for 12:30 lunch or 19:30 dinner.

Bar del Pla ★ 4.5

€€ SpanishBorn

Bar del Pla in Barcelona's Born is the locals' counter on Montcada that draws the chef trade for the modernised tapas and natural-wine. Priced at €€.

OrderThe beef carpaccio with truffle and the slow-cooked Iberico cheeks.

TipOpen daily lunch and dinner; book the bar over the back room. Walk-up after 22:30 is the easier slot.

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Patatas bravas in Madrid

Casa Toni ★ 4.2

€ Spanish tapasCentro

Casa Toni near Sol in Madrid serves the offal canon at counter prices: oreja a la plancha 6 euros, callos 8, cana 2.50; the whole working-day lunch.

TryCallos, oreja, cana

TipCash only. Walk-in only at the standing-room bar. Closed Wednesdays. The bar is full by 13:00.

El Doble ★ 4.3

€ Spanish tapasSalamanca

El Doble on Calle Ponzano in Madrid is the cana doble (double-pour beer in tall glasses) headline counter, with sharp Mahou and short-cellar wines.

OrderA cana doble (3.50 euros) at the bar with boquerones en vinagre and a pincho de tortilla.

TipWalk-in only. Standing room at the bar. Cash strongly preferred. The terrace is on weekends only.

Estado Puro ★ 4.3

€€ Modern TapasCentro

Estado Puro on Plaza Canovas in Madrid is the modern-tapas room by Paco Roncero, with a clean white dining room, an open kitchen and a carte.

OrderThe patatas bravas (8 euros), the tortilla de Sacha (deconstructed in a glass) and the croquetas de jamon.

TipBook three days ahead for weekend dinner. The terrace seats 12; the inside dining room is the design-led room.

Bodega de la Ardosa ★ 4.4

€ Madrileno TabernaMalasana

Bodega de la Ardosa in Madrid's Malasana has poured the vermut de grifo since 1892 from the 30-foot zinc bar, with salmorejo, tortilla de patatas.

OrderVermut de grifo (2.50 euros), a slice of tortilla de patatas, salmorejo. Crawl in via the back door.

TipWalk-in only; the back room takes 8 people max. The historic main bar fills up at 13:00; cash preferred.

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