40 editor picks in Córdoba.
40 mid-range places in Córdoba, editor-picked. the comfortable everyday-good restaurants in Córdoba, with real cooking and no surprise on the bill. All Córdoba food.
Taberna Salinas has run off Córdoba's Corredera since 1924, an azulejo bar backed by wine casks and a patio full of plants and old paintings.
OrderThe salmorejo, the version most cordobeses measure the others against.
TipIt shuts on Sunday and does no dinner on Saturday, which trips up weekend visitors constantly.
Taberna Salinas has run off Córdoba's Corredera since 1924, an azulejo bar backed by wine casks and a patio full of plants and old paintings.
OrderThe salmorejo, the version most cordobeses measure the others against.
TipIt shuts on Sunday and does no dinner on Saturday, which trips up weekend visitors constantly.
Obrador San Rafael has run in Córdoba since 1918, and El Manolete came out of its founder's collaboration with the bullfighter of the same name.
OrderA Manolete, then a full pastel cordobés in hojaldre and cabello de ángel.
TipThere are four shops in the city; Alfayatas is the one closest to the old quarter.
Taberna Salinas stores its wine in eleven American-oak barrels in Córdoba and has poured house Montilla-Moriles beside 1920 azulejos since 1924.
OrderA copa of the house fino before you look at the food carta.
TipIt shuts on Sunday and does no dinner on Saturday, which trips up weekend visitors constantly.
Taberna Salinas serves salmorejo, flamenquín and fried aubergine off Córdoba's Corredera, in a barrel-lined room the Salinas family took on in 1924.
OrderSalmorejo, then flamenquines de jamón serrano.
TipAn earlier tavern stood here from 1879; the Salinas family business itself dates from 1924.
Casa El Pisto has stood on Plaza de San Miguel in Córdoba since 1880, a bullfighting taberna where the pisto with a fried egg is the house test.
OrderPisto casero con huevo, the plate that gave the taberna its nickname.
TipThe operator lists lunchtime hours only, so treat this as a midday stop rather than a dinner plan.
Casa El Pisto has stood on Plaza de San Miguel in Córdoba since 1880, a bullfighting taberna where the pisto with a fried egg is the house test.
OrderPisto casero con huevo, the plate that gave the taberna its nickname.
TipThe operator lists lunchtime hours only, so treat this as a midday stop rather than a dinner plan.
Casa El Pisto has poured on Plaza de San Miguel in Córdoba since 1880, a taberna and tobacconist whose walls are papered with bullfighting history.
OrderA fino at the counter, then the pisto with a fried egg.
TipThe operator lists lunchtime hours only, so treat this as a midday stop rather than a dinner plan.
Casa El Pisto has fed Plaza de San Miguel in Córdoba since 1880, a bullfighting taberna where a plate of pisto with a fried egg costs almost nothing.
OrderPisto casero con huevo, then the ensaladilla rusa.
TipThe operator publishes lunchtime hours only, so treat this as a midday stop rather than dinner.
The Plateros silversmiths' guild still runs this Córdoba taberna on Calle San Francisco, thick white walls set around a patio under a skylight.
OrderA copa of the house Oro Viejo with whatever tapa the bar suggests.
TipThe staff swap every round plate on the table for a square one when a coeliac sits down.
Taberna La Montillana has traded on Calle San Álvaro in Córdoba since 1948, bull heads on the walls and Montilla-Moriles wines behind the bar.
OrderMazamorra, the almond purée that predates salmorejo in this city.
TipThe kitchen rotates a recommendation board, so read it before ordering off the printed carta.
Taberna La Montillana has traded on Calle San Álvaro in Córdoba since 1948, bull heads on the walls and Montilla-Moriles wines behind the bar.
OrderMazamorra, the almond purée that predates salmorejo in this city.
TipThe kitchen rotates a recommendation board, so read it before ordering off the printed carta.
The Plateros silversmiths' guild still runs this Córdoba taberna on Calle San Francisco, thick white walls set around a patio under a skylight.
OrderA copa of the house Oro Viejo with whatever tapa the bar suggests.
TipThe staff swap every round plate on the table for a square one when a coeliac sits down.
Barra y Mesa is a small wooden-counter taberna in central Córdoba pouring Montilla-Moriles beside salmorejo, flamenquín and slow-cooked rabo de toro.
OrderRabo de toro, cooked down until the meat leaves the bone on its own.
TipIt closes on Sunday and serves dinner Wednesday to Saturday only, and the room is small enough that a booking matters.
David Ruano bakes long-fermentation sourdough in Córdoba with no additives, holding two stars from the Ruta Española del Buen Pan for the work.
OrderA telera, or whichever designer loaf is baked for the restaurants that day.
TipThere is no seating at all, so buy the bread and eat it somewhere else.
The silversmiths' guild taberna on Calle San Francisco in Córdoba pours its own Montilla-Moriles labels around a patio set under a glass roof.
OrderA copa of Oro Viejo, the guild's own bottling.
TipTell the staff if you are coeliac; they swap every round plate on the table for a square one.
Taberna La Montillana has stood beside San Miguel in Córdoba since 1948 and makes almost no concessions to the tourist trade a few streets south.
TipOrder the mazamorra rather than the salmorejo; it is the older dish and the harder one to find.
Taberna La Montillana has run beside San Miguel in Córdoba since 1948 and is one of the very few kitchens in the city still serving mazamorra.
OrderMazamorra, the white almond soup that came before salmorejo.
TipThe operator writes its closing time as until close rather than a clock hour, so late arrivals are a gamble.
Astoria Casa Matías cooks spoon stews, dehesa meat and seasonal vegetables in Córdoba, well away from the Mezquita crowds on Calle el Nogal.
OrderWhichever guiso de cuchara is on; the stews are the reason locals drive here.
TipOnly Wednesday to Saturday runs past 18:30, so plan a dinner here midweek at your peril.
El Rincón de Carmen slow-cooks old-style rabo de toro and fries homemade ham croquettes around a Córdoban patio on Calle Romero in the Judería.
OrderRabo de toro a la antigua, the kitchen's stated signature.
TipThe patio seats fewer than the two dining rooms combined, so name it when you book; the house sources from the Sierra de Córdoba.
Taberna La Viuda works the San Basilio side of Córdoba with more than thirty plates, cheese-stuffed flamenquín among them, and citrus-cured tuna.
OrderThe flamenquín de queso, the house rewrite of the city's fried classic.
TipSan Basilio wins most of the patio prizes in May, so book here well ahead during the festival.
Taberna La Viuda works the San Basilio side of Córdoba with more than thirty plates, cheese-stuffed flamenquín among them, and citrus-cured tuna.
OrderThe flamenquín de queso, the house rewrite of the city's fried classic.
TipSan Basilio wins most of the patio prizes in May, so book here well ahead during the festival.
Pastelería Savoy has worked in Córdoba since 1969, founded by a third-generation pastry chef and still turning out the classic pastel cordobés.
OrderThe pastel cordobés, hojaldre and cabello de ángel, nothing else needed.
TipProduction moved to a Lope de Rueda obrador in 1982; Maestro Priego López is the shop you want.
Cervezas Califa has brewed in Córdoba since 2013, and its Juan Valera taproom pours the whole range from the 5.2 percent lager to a 10.5 percent barley wine.
OrderThe Punch IPA at 7.2 percent, the beer that made the brewery's name.
TipProduction happens at a separate plant on Calle Estonia; Juan Valera is the taproom you actually want.
Cervezas Califa keeps its taproom pouring until 01:30 on Friday and Saturday in central Córdoba, the full house range on tap after the tabernas have shut.
OrderThe Punch IPA, or the Barley Wine if you are staying put.
TipWeeknights it shuts at midnight, so the late window is Friday and Saturday only.
Astoria Casa Matías keeps its kitchen going to 01:00 from Wednesday to Saturday in Córdoba, spoon stews and dehesa meat long after the centre has closed.
OrderWhichever guiso de cuchara is left on the board at midnight.
TipMonday, Tuesday and Sunday it stops at 18:30, so the late window is Wednesday to Saturday.
Taberna La Viuda runs more than thirty tapas and raciones in San Basilio in Córdoba, including a flamenquín stuffed with cheese rather than ham.
OrderThe flamenquín de queso, the house rewrite of the city's fried classic.
TipIt opens all seven days with a full split service, rare in a barrio where most rooms take a day off.
Casa Rubio sits against the Puerta de Almodóvar gate in Córdoba, a 1920 taberna renamed in 1932 and now three floors deep with a wall-view terrace.
OrderBerenjenas con miel de caña, then the tortilla de rabo de toro.
TipIt closes Tuesday and Wednesday, which catches out visitors who assume a Judería taberna opens daily.
La Cazuela de la Espartería cooks taberna standards beside Plaza de la Corredera, salmorejo, flamenquín, pisto and rabo de toro across its salons.
OrderThe pisto, the vegetable stew that Córdoba's tabernas use to measure each other.
TipSunday is lunch only and Saturday dinner starts at 20:30, an hour later than on weekdays, so check the clock before you set out.
La Taberna de Almodóvar pours fino en rama over a wooden bar in central Córdoba, with salmorejo and flamenquín run as the everyday counter order.
OrderSalmorejo first, then the flamenquín, in that order and no other.
TipSunday is lunch only, and the kitchen shuts firmly at 16:30 before the evening service.
Taberna La Fuenseca sits on Calle Juan Rufo in Córdoba, a wooden-bar house on the city's historic-taberna register pouring fino en rama by the copa.
OrderFino en rama, poured cold, with whatever is on the tapa board.
TipThe kitchen stops at 23:00 and the place shuts Mondays, so it is an early-evening rather than late stop.
La Taberna de Almodóvar pours fino en rama over a wooden bar in central Córdoba, with salmorejo and flamenquín run as the everyday counter order.
OrderSalmorejo first, then the flamenquín, in that order and no other.
TipSunday is lunch only, and the kitchen shuts firmly at 16:30 before the evening service.
La Taberna de Trasmallo has worked Avenida Doctor Fleming in Córdoba since 2009, a wooden-bar room pouring fino en rama beside the city's standards.
OrderFlamenquín with a copa of fino en rama alongside.
TipIt runs straight through from midday, which makes it useful in the dead hours when tabernas shut.
Tueste is the specialty coffee counter on Calle Deanes in Córdoba, ten-plus origins sold as whole bean or ground to whichever brew method you name.
OrderThe espresso tonic, or a bag of whichever origin is freshest that week.
TipRoasting is done weekly with its ally Café Sin Intermediarios rather than on the premises, so the retail shelf rotates constantly.
Vinoteca Ordóñez works a terrace within sight of the Mezquita in Córdoba, running a wide Spanish list built out from Montilla-Moriles wines.
OrderA Pedro Ximénez to finish, which is what this list exists to sell you.
TipAsk the staff to walk you up the Montilla-Moriles scale from fino to PX rather than ordering blind.
Taberna La Fuenseca pours fino en rama over a wooden bar on Calle Juan Rufo in Córdoba, one of the houses on the city's historic-taberna register.
OrderFino en rama, which is the whole reason the bar has a following.
TipService stops at 23:00 and the place shuts Mondays, so plan it as an early-evening stop.
La Taberna de Trasmallo runs to 01:00 on Friday and Saturday in Córdoba, still pouring fino en rama and serving flamenquín when the tabernas have shut.
OrderFlamenquín with a copa of fino en rama, late.
TipClosed Monday and Tuesday, and on Sunday it finishes at 18:00 rather than running into the night.
The Golden Stack does the American end of brunch in Córdoba, pancakes, waffles and bagels with a plant-based range, on Calle Fray Luis de Granada.
OrderA pancake stack, or a bagel if the queue for the griddle is long.
TipWeekdays split at 13:30 and reopen at 17:00, so a 15:00 brunch plan will find the door shut.
La Taberna del Río works a corner off Córdoba's Paseo de la Ribera, rotating art on the walls and a summer roof terrace above the Guadalquivir.
OrderThe rabo de toro risotto, the kitchen's own crossing of two traditions.
TipThe kitchen runs straight through from 13:00 to midnight, rare in a city that closes between services.
Amaltea has cooked on Córdoba's Ronda de Isasa since 2000, a Mediterranean kitchen built on garden vegetables and Andalusian extra virgin olive oil.
OrderAsk what the vegetable dish of the day is; that is where the kitchen puts its effort.
TipIt runs separate vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free cartas alongside the main one, so say what you need when you sit.
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