Catalan tapas€€born
El Xampanyet in Barcelona's Born has poured house cava out of a marble bar since 1929. Anchovies, conserves and that is it; standing only at the counter.
Signature: Anchovies, Cava
Order: Two glasses of the house cava and a plate of anchovies with bread.
Tip: Open Tue-Sat lunch only. Pile into the bar at 13:00 or wait outside on Carrer de Montcada.
Conserves and montaditos€€poble-sec
Quimet i Quimet in Barcelona's Poble-sec is the four-generations standing bar where bottles line the wall and the cook builds montaditos on demand.
Signature: Montadito of salmon with yoghurt and truffle honey, Conserva flights
Order: The salmon-yoghurt-truffle-honey montadito and a flight of tinned mussels.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat lunch and early dinner only; closed Sunday. Arrive before 19:30 for a hope of a corner.
Asian tapas€€€raval
Dos Palillos in Barcelona's Raval is Albert Raurich's Asian-tapas counter behind a black curtain inside Casa Camper. Dim sum, yakitori, sushi-bar service.
Signature: Dim sum tasting, Yakitori
Order: The full Asian tasting menu; sit at the counter to watch.
Tip: Closed Sun-Tue. Counter seats book up two weeks ahead; the back dining room is easier.
Japanese€€€€gotic
Koy Shunka in Barcelona's Gothic Quarter is Hideki Matsuhisa's one-star Japanese counter where the sashimi and nigiri arrive piece by piece from a U-shaped bar.
Signature: Tasting menu, Sashimi
Order: The Omakase tasting menu and the seaweed-and-yuzu starter.
Tip: Counter seats face the chef; book those over the back tables. Closed Sunday.
Modern Catalan tapas€€born
Bar del Pla in Barcelona's Born is the locals' counter on Montcada that draws the chef trade for the modernised tapas and natural-wine pours.
Signature: Beef carpaccio with truffle, Iberico pork cheeks
Order: The beef carpaccio with truffle and the slow-cooked Iberico cheeks.
Tip: Open daily lunch and dinner; book the bar over the back room. Walk-up after 22:30 is the easier slot.
Catalan tapas€€eixample
Tapas 24 in Barcelona's Eixample is Carles Abellan's basement counter where the bikini truffle sandwich and the McFoie burger redefined Catalan tapas in 2006.
Signature: McFoie burger, Bikini truffle sandwich
Order: The bikini truffle sandwich and the patatas bravas.
Tip: Open 09:00-midnight daily; no reservations. Aim for 12:30 lunch or 19:30 dinner.