Modern Catalan€€€born
Montiel in Barcelona's Born is a small-room tasting kitchen by Javier Montiel: a market-led menu that changes weekly, priced for a sub-fine-dining bracket.
Signature: Market tasting, Tuna belly tartare
Order: The market-led tasting; ask for the wine pairing.
Tip: Closed Mon-Tue. Book two weeks ahead for a Friday or Saturday seat; the Wednesday turn is the easier walk-up.
Catalan creative€€€€eixample
Manairo in Barcelona's Eixample is Jordi Herrera's one-star room where the deconstructed paella in a tomato shell and live-flame fillet built the reputation.
Signature: Deconstructed paella, Foie gras crema
Order: The signature deconstructed paella and the live-flame fillet.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The 45 euro menu del dia at lunch is the entry; dinner doubles it.
Catalan classic€€€born
7 Portes in Barcelona's Born has run since 1836: arched rooms, brass plaques on regulars' tables, a paella for each day of the week.
Signature: Parellada paella, Catalan cream
Order: The Thursday paella Parellada and the crema catalana to finish.
Tip: Lunch is easier than dinner; the noon paella is held on the menu every day of the week.
Catalan classic€€eixample
Casa Amalia in Barcelona's Eixample is a 1950s neighbourhood dining room where bacallà a la llauna and esqueixada sit on the carte every weekday lunch.
Signature: Esqueixada, Bacalla a la llauna
Order: The esqueixada starter and the bacallà a la llauna oven dish.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The 19 euro menu del dia at lunch is the value pick.
Catalan seafood€€barceloneta
Somorrostro in Barcelona's Barceloneta is the modern Catalan room where the black rice with squid is the order and the natural-wine list is the surprise.
Signature: Black rice with squid, Catalan fideua
Order: The black rice with squid and aioli, plus an albariño.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. The lunch carte is the price point; dinner adds 25 percent.
Modern tapas€€gracia
La Pepita in Barcelona's Gracia is the writing-on-the-wall counter where the croquettes and the tuna tataki built a Friday queue that runs into Sunday.
Signature: Croquettes, Tuna tataki
Order: The ham croquettes and the tuna tataki with avocado.
Tip: No reservations. Pile in at 12:30 or 19:30; bar walk-up easier than table.