Catalan classic€€€born
7 Portes in Barcelona's Born has run since 1836: arched rooms, brass plaques on regulars' tables, a paella for each day of the week.
Signature: Parellada paella, Catalan cream
Order: The Thursday paella Parellada and the crema catalana to finish.
Tip: Lunch is easier than dinner; the noon paella is held on the menu every day of the week.
Catalan classic€€eixample
Casa Amalia in Barcelona's Eixample is a 1950s neighbourhood dining room where bacallà a la llauna and esqueixada sit on the carte every weekday lunch.
Signature: Esqueixada, Bacalla a la llauna
Order: The esqueixada starter and the bacallà a la llauna oven dish.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The 19 euro menu del dia at lunch is the value pick.
Catalan seafood€€barceloneta
Somorrostro in Barcelona's Barceloneta is the modern Catalan room where the black rice with squid is the order and the natural-wine list is the surprise.
Signature: Black rice with squid, Catalan fideua
Order: The black rice with squid and aioli, plus an albariño.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. The lunch carte is the price point; dinner adds 25 percent.
Modern tapas€€gracia
La Pepita in Barcelona's Gracia is the writing-on-the-wall counter where the croquettes and the tuna tataki built a Friday queue that runs into Sunday.
Signature: Croquettes, Tuna tataki
Order: The ham croquettes and the tuna tataki with avocado.
Tip: No reservations. Pile in at 12:30 or 19:30; bar walk-up easier than table.
Vermouth and tapas€gracia
Bar Bodega Quimet in Barcelona's Gracia is a corner-bodega vermouth bar with tin sardines, anchovy boquerones and house draught vermouth poured cold.
Signature: Olive vermouth pour, Anchovies
Order: Vermouth on tap with two olives, anchovies on the side.
Tip: Open daily lunch and early evening; closed mid-afternoon. Cash easier than card on busy days.
Catalan tapas€€€born
Cal Pep in Barcelona's Born has run the same standing counter since 1977: tortilla del bacallà, baby clams with ham, fried gambes, all called out by Pep at the bar.
Signature: Tortilla del bacallà, Cloïsses amb pernil
Order: The tortilla del bacallà and the clams with ham, with a glass of cava.
Tip: No reservations. Be at the door at 13:00 or 19:30 if you want a counter seat in the first turn.