The plates that define Porto: what they are, and where to eat the canonical version.
The plates that define Porto. what they are, where they came from, and where to eat the canonical version.
Porto's signature sandwich: bread layered with cured meats, sausage and steak, blanketed with melted cheese and a tomato-and-beer sauce poured hot at the table.
Where: Cafe Santiago, Bufete Fase, Brasao Aliados, Lado B Cafe, O Afonso, Francesinha Cafe, Yuko Tavern
Price: €10 to €15
The white-bean and tripe stew that gave Porto its tripeiros nickname, slow-cooked with cured meats, carrots and chourico over rice for a heavy Sunday lunch dish.
Where: O Buraco, O Paparico
Price: €10 to €16
Porto's contribution to the bacalhau canon: shredded salt cod layered with sliced potatoes, onions, eggs and olives, baked together with olive oil and parsley.
Where: Adega Sao Nicolau, DOP, Abadia do Porto
Price: €14 to €22
Slow-roasted pork leg pulled into a soft fofo roll, with optional Serra cheese melted on top: Porto's working-day sandwich, eaten on the pavement off Praca dos Poveiros.
Where: Casa Guedes Tradicional
Price: €4 to €7
Salt cod, potato and onion croquettes deep-fried in egg-rich batter: the Porto petisco eaten with a beer at every cervejaria from Cervejaria do Carmo to Brasao.
Where: Cervejaria do Carmo, Brasao Aliados, Adega Sao Nicolau
Price: €1.50 each, €4 for three
Pressed Porto hot dog: a thin sausage in crisp bread, slathered with butter, spice and cheese, then griddled flat in an iron press. Eaten standing at Cervejaria Gazela.
Where: Cervejaria Gazela
Price: €2 each, €5 for two with a beer
Thin slices of pork loin simmered in a paprika-and-garlic broth, then served in a soft fofo roll with a smear of mustard or piri-piri: Porto's stand-up lunch sandwich.
Where: Conga Casa das Bifanas, Cervejaria do Carmo
Price: €2.50 to €4
A side-by-side tasting of white, ruby, tawny and vintage port from a Vila Nova de Gaia lodge: the wine flight that defines a Porto afternoon across the Douro.
Where: Vinologia, Wine Quay Bar, Prova, Capela Incomum
Price: €15 to €40 per flight
Porto's signature sandwich: bread layered with cured meats, sausage and steak, blanketed with melted cheese and a tomato-and-beer sauce poured hot at the table.
History: Daniel David Silva, an emigrant returning from France and Belgium, joined the Regaleira on Rua do Bonjardim in 1952 and adapted the croque-monsieur for Portuguese palates. The francesinha (little French girl) traded ham and bechamel for cured sausages, steak and a hot tomato-beer sauce. The dish became Porto's lunch identity within a single decade, and the original Regaleira still trades on Rua do Bonjardim.
Where to try it: Cafe Santiago, Bufete Fase, Brasao Aliados, Lado B Cafe, O Afonso, Francesinha Cafe, Yuko Tavern
Watch out for: Gluten, Dairy
The white-bean and tripe stew that gave Porto its tripeiros nickname, slow-cooked with cured meats, carrots and chourico over rice for a heavy Sunday lunch dish.
History: When Portuguese ships gathered on the Douro in 1415 to sail for Ceuta under Prince Henry the Navigator, Porto sent its best meat with the fleet. The city was left with the offal, including the tripe, which the cooks turned into a bean-and-cured-meat stew. The nickname tripeiros, tripe-eaters, has been Porto's badge of honour for six centuries.
Where to try it: O Buraco, O Paparico
Watch out for: Gluten
Porto's contribution to the bacalhau canon: shredded salt cod layered with sliced potatoes, onions, eggs and olives, baked together with olive oil and parsley.
History: Jose Luis Gomes de Sa, a 19th-century cod merchant in Porto, sold his family's recipe to a chef at the Restaurante Lisbonense in the late 1800s. The recipe was condition: never change it. The dish spread from Porto across Portugal and remains the city's contribution to the bacalhau preparation canon, eaten on Christmas Eve and at family Sunday lunches.
Where to try it: Adega Sao Nicolau, DOP, Abadia do Porto
Watch out for: Fish, Egg
Slow-roasted pork leg pulled into a soft fofo roll, with optional Serra cheese melted on top: Porto's working-day sandwich, eaten on the pavement off Praca dos Poveiros.
History: Casa Guedes on Praca dos Poveiros opened in 1987 when the Correia brothers took over an older snack bar; their slow-roasted pernil shredded into a fofo roll grew slowly until a 2008 Time Out Porto cover pushed it into citywide canon. The second-site overflow at numbers 76 to 80 opened in 2019 to handle the queues. The Serra da Estrela cheese upgrade, melted on top, is the version locals defend.
Where to try it: Casa Guedes Tradicional
Watch out for: Gluten, Dairy
Salt cod, potato and onion croquettes deep-fried in egg-rich batter: the Porto petisco eaten with a beer at every cervejaria from Cervejaria do Carmo to Brasao.
History: Salt cod arrived through the working port of Porto in volume from 1850, and the Portuguese repertoire of bacalhau preparations grew through the late 19th century. Bolinhos de bacalhau (also called pasteis de bacalhau in southern Portugal) emerged from the working-class need to stretch leftover salt cod with potato and onion. The croquettes are still made at home for Christmas and served daily at every cervejaria in Porto.
Where to try it: Cervejaria do Carmo, Brasao Aliados, Adega Sao Nicolau
Watch out for: Fish, Egg, Gluten
Pressed Porto hot dog: a thin sausage in crisp bread, slathered with butter, spice and cheese, then griddled flat in an iron press. Eaten standing at Cervejaria Gazela.
History: Cervejaria Gazela on Travessa de Cimo de Vila opened in 1962 just off Praca da Batalha, building its name on the cachorrinho. The dish, a small Portuguese take on the hot dog, is pressed in a heavy iron press with butter and spice until the bread is crisp on the outside and the sausage and cheese melt together inside. Anthony Bourdain filmed Parts Unknown here in 2017.
Where to try it: Cervejaria Gazela
Watch out for: Gluten, Dairy
Thin slices of pork loin simmered in a paprika-and-garlic broth, then served in a soft fofo roll with a smear of mustard or piri-piri: Porto's stand-up lunch sandwich.
History: Bifanas are a Portuguese pork sandwich found in every cervejaria, but Conga on Rua do Bonjardim has been simmering theirs since 1976 with a paprika-and-garlic broth recipe that locals call definitive. The bifana is the cheapest sit-down sandwich in Porto, the stop between bar and home.
Where to try it: Conga Casa das Bifanas, Cervejaria do Carmo
Watch out for: Gluten
A side-by-side tasting of white, ruby, tawny and vintage port from a Vila Nova de Gaia lodge: the wine flight that defines a Porto afternoon across the Douro.
History: Port wine has been made along the Douro since the 17th century, but the modern industry dates to the 1703 Methuen Treaty that opened the British market. British merchants set up cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia from 1710, and the Douro Valley was demarcated in 1756, the first protected wine region in the world. The flight, a comparative tasting of white, ruby, tawny and vintage styles, is the standard format at every Gaia lodge.
Where to try it: Vinologia, Wine Quay Bar, Prova, Capela Incomum
Porto's signature dishes include Francesinha, Tripas a moda do Porto, Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa, Sandes de pernil, Bolinhos de bacalhau. See our signature dishes chapter for where to eat each.