Suckling pig roasted whole on a wood-fired spit for 4 hours until the skin shatters like glass and the flesh inside is melting; sliced at the table with a peppery garlic-and-white-wine paste.

Leitão à Bairrada is the signature dish of the Bairrada region between Coimbra and Aveiro, where wood-fired spit roasting of suckling pigs is a centuries-old tradition tied to the local Mealhada road. Porto's Cedofeita neighbourhood has hosted the Leitão da Bairrada restaurant since the 1970s, importing the Bairrada method to the city.

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