O Paparico in northern Porto runs an evening-only Portuguese kitchen inside a small stone house near the Areosa church, with a long Douro wine list.
Signature dishes: Slow-roast suckling pig, Bacalhau a moda do Paparico
Must order: Slow-roast suckling pig, bottle of Douro red from the cellar.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Two services, 19:00 and 21:30; book a fortnight ahead.
Address: Rua de Costa Cabral 2343, 4200-232 Porto
Lareira on Rua das Oliveiras in Porto has been a family-run tasca since 1984, grilling steaks, leitao and bacalhau a brasa at working-day prices.
Signature: Bife grelhado, Carne de porco a alentejana
Order: Bife grelhado with garlic potatoes, half a litre of house red.
Tip: Cash strongly preferred. Lunch only, closes 16:00. Walk on to Galerias de Paris for the night.
DOP at Largo de Sao Domingos in Porto is chef Rui Paula's modern-Portuguese tasting room inside the Palacio das Artes Fabrica de Talentos, opened in 2010 with a deep Douro cellar.
Signature: Cataplana of seafood, Slow-cooked pork cheek
Order: Tasting menu with wine pairing. Cataplana de mariscos a la carte for one plate.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Lunch tasting is cheaper than dinner and runs the same kitchen.
Lado B on Rua de Passos Manuel in Porto sits next door to Cafe Santiago and runs a fresher francesinha, plus a vegetarian build of mushrooms and tofu.
Signature: Vegetarian francesinha, Classic francesinha
Order: Classic francesinha with chips and a Super Bock. The veg version if you do not eat pork.
Tip: Open every day. The veg francesinha is a Porto rarity; arrive before 13:00 to avoid the queue.
O Afonso on Rua da Torrinha in Porto's Cedofeita is the dark-horse francesinha, a thinner sauce and a steady following of architecture students from over the road.
Signature: Francesinha
Order: Francesinha with egg, glass of red.
Tip: Closed Sunday. Counter seats turn over quickly; a 14:00 arrival usually works on weekdays.
Lemos Cafe on Rua de 5 de Outubro in Porto is a residential francesinha counter, a darker sauce with whisky in the build and a regulars-only crowd Sunday nights.
Signature: Francesinha, Bitoque
Order: Francesinha and an imperial; bitoque if you want a side of beef and chips.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. Walk-in only and ten tables; arrive 19:30 if you want a clean turn.
OMA in Porto's Miragaia is chef Luis Moreira's neighbourhood counter, a Michelin Bib Gourmand for short tasting menus built around the day's fish.
Signature: Seasonal tasting menu, Cured Atlantic fish course
Order: Whichever short tasting the kitchen is running; the wine pairing is the move.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Eight counter seats; book through Instagram or by phone two weeks out.
