Dahlia ★ 4.4
$$$bairro-altoTue to Sat 18:30 to 01:00, closed Sun and Mon
Dahlia on Travessa do Carvalho opened in 2021 as one of Portugal's first listening bars, a 6,000-record vinyl collection curated by DJ Trus'me played through a high-end system over Mediterranean small plates.
Tip: Tuesday to Saturday from 18:30 to 01:00; closed Sunday and Monday. The kitchen runs Middle Eastern leaning share plates, the wine list is natural and short.
Vago ★ 4.5
$$cais-do-sodreTue to Sat 19:00 to 02:00, closed Sun and Mon
Vago on Rua das Gaivotas in Santos is a Japanese-kissa-inspired listening bar in a converted semi-basement, tube amps, horn speakers and a vinyl-only programme paired with natural wine and snacks.
Tip: Tuesday to Saturday 19:00 to 02:00; closed Sunday and Monday. The room is small and the music is the focus; conversation stays low between cuts.
A Ginjinha ★ 4.5
$alfamaDaily 09:00 to 22:00
A Ginjinha on Largo de São Domingos has poured ginja sour-cherry liquor from a single counter since 1910, the Espinheira family bar that gave the city its standing-up shot tradition by Rossio station.
Tip: One pour, one euro fifty; ask for it com or sem (with or without the cherry). Open every day from 09:00 to midnight; queues are part of the ritual.
Ginjinha Sem Rival ★ 4.4
$alfamaDaily 08:00 to 00:00
Ginjinha Sem Rival on Rua das Portas de Santo Antão has poured ginja and Eduardino aniseed liquor since 1890, a tile-fronted standing counter on the old theatre walk between Rossio and the Coliseu.
Tip: Two house pours: Ginjinha (cherry) and Eduardino (anise). The bar is two metres wide; drink at the counter or take it onto the pavement. Open from 08:00 daily.
A Tabacaria ★ 4.3
$$cais-do-sodreMon to Thu 15:00 to 02:00, Fri 15:00 to 03:00, Sat and Sun 18:00 to 03:00
A Tabacaria on Rua de São Paulo is the old tobacconist turned cocktail tasca in Cais do Sodré, tile facade and wooden counters intact, with a short list of well-made classics and a late-night room.
Tip: Walk-in only; the room is narrow, the back bar is the late seat. Open daily from 15:00 to 02:00, weekends to 03:00. Order the Old Fashioned or whichever the bartender suggests.
O Bom O Mau e O Vilão ★ 4.4
$$cais-do-sodreSun to Thu 19:00 to 02:00, Fri and Sat 19:00 to 03:00
O Bom O Mau e O Vilão on Rua do Alecrim is the labyrinth cocktail bar named for the Sergio Leone western, several rooms of sofas, low lamps and a weekly jazz and blues live programme over a long list of drinks.
Tip: Open daily from 19:00 to 02:00, weekends to 03:00. The back rooms are the conversation seats; live jazz Wednesday and Thursday nights, DJ sets weekends.