Eat in Zona Norte, Rio de Janeiro

Velho Adonis ★ 4.2

Velho Adonis is a Portuguese boteco in Benfica, in Rio de Janeiro's Zona Norte, pouring chope with a head beside bolinho de bacalhau and sardinhas ao forno.

OrderBolinho de bacalhau, sardinhas ao forno and the Maladrinho de 70 rice dish for four.

TipThe bar is closed on Mondays and shuts at 19:00 on Sundays, so plan lunch or an early evening visit.

Adega D'Ouro ★ 4.1

Adega D'Ouro has served cod in many forms beside Vicente de Carvalho metro station in Rio de Janeiro, a Portuguese house now run by its third generation.

OrderBacalhau à moda da casa: fried cod with boiled potatoes, tomato, palm heart, onion and olives.

TipThe full cod dish is sized for up to five people, so order it for a group and start with the bolinho de bacalhau.

Bar da Portuguesa ★ 4.4

Dona Donzília Gomes runs Bar da Portuguesa, a Ramos botequim on Rua Custódio Nunes in Rio de Janeiro known for bolinho de bacalhau and aipim croquettes.

OrderBolinho de bacalhau, the fritada de bacalhau or camarão, and the aipim croquette with carne seca.

TipIt placed second at Botecar 2025 with a trio of cod bolinhos stuffed with whole shrimp; it is shut on Mondays.

Bar do Bode Cheiroso ★ 4.2

Bar do Bode Cheiroso has served sardinha frita, roast pernil and torresmo on Rua General Canabarro in Maracanã, Rio de Janeiro, since 1945, a heritage bar.

OrderTorresmo de tira, which the house calls its barrinha de cereal, with roast pernil and fried sardines.

TipDishes of the day are listed on the board; cozido is served on Wednesdays, and dobradinha and feijoada are also house specialities.

Cachambeer ★ 4.3

Cachambeer is a Cachambi botequim on Rua Cachambi in Rio de Janeiro, open since 2002 and known for costela no bafo and a Patrimônio Cultural Carioca title.

OrderCostela no bafo, then the Infarto Completo or the Filezão Metido a Besta to share.

TipIt is closed on Mondays, opens only from 17:00 on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and stops serving at 18:00 on Sundays.

Cachambeer ★ 4.3

Cachambeer is a Cachambi botequim in Rio de Janeiro, open since 2002 and known for costela no bafo and big petiscos, with Patrimônio Cultural Carioca status.

FoodCostela no bafo, Infarto Completo and Filezão Metido a Besta

TipIt opens at 17:00 on Tuesday and Wednesday, at midday Thursday to Saturday, and closes at 18:00 on Sunday.

CADEG, Mercado Municipal do Rio de Janeiro ★ 4.4

CADEG, the Mercado Municipal do Rio de Janeiro in Benfica, sells salt cod, wine, flowers and groceries, and 25 restaurants joined its 2025 cod festival.

Mercadão de Madureira ★ 4.1

Mercadão de Madureira is a popular market of more than 580 shops on Avenida Ministro Edgard Romero in Madureira, Rio de Janeiro, open Monday to Saturday.

Dia de São Jorge ★ 4.2

Dia de São Jorge on 23 April brings a dawn Mass and procession in Quintino, and across Rio de Janeiro bars serve feijoada, as black beans are a food of Ogum, the orixá tied to the saint.

Bar da Portuguesa ★ 4.4

Bar da Portuguesa, on Rua Custódio Nunes in Ramos, Rio de Janeiro, is a family botequim known for bolinho de bacalhau and aipim fritters with shrimp.

Why locals goIn Ramos, away from the tourist zones; the small inner room is the owner's family living room, and chilli plants grow in the street beds outside.

TipThursday broth is usually siri and Friday's mocotó; ask for the aipim fritters stuffed with shrimp and the house chilli.

Velho Adonis ★ 4.1

Velho Adonis is a Portuguese bar in Benfica, in Rio de Janeiro's Zona Norte, pouring chope with a head beside bolinho de bacalhau and empadas.

Why locals goA Portuguese bar in Benfica, in the Zona Norte, recognised as Carioca Cultural Heritage in 2013; it opens Tuesday to Sunday and closes Mondays.

TipOrder the chope with a head beside the bolinho de bacalhau, fried alheiras or jiló à milanesa; a weekly menu adds one special plate a day.

Bar do Mozoca ★ 3.8

Bar do Mozoca is a Méier boteco in Rio de Janeiro whose Comida di Buteco 2026 entry was sweet-potato dough stuffed with sun-dried beef, cheese and broccoli.

Why locals goOn Rua Leite Ribeiro in Méier, away from the Zona Sul beaches; its Comida di Buteco 2026 dish was named Delícia do Mozoca.

TipThe listing gives the same hours every day, 11:00 to 22:00, with no closing day, so it suits an early lunch or a mid-evening stop.

Bar do Luisinho ★ 3.8

Bar do Luisinho is an Encantado boteco in Rio de Janeiro whose Comida di Buteco 2026 entry was pork-rib croquettes in broccoli dough, breaded in panko.

Why locals goIn Encantado, on Rua Dois de Fevereiro; its Comida di Buteco 2026 dish, Ossinho da Roça, used the pork rib bone as the handle of two green coxinhas.

TipIt opens at 11:00 every day except Monday, closing at 23:30 on weekdays and 22:30 on Sunday; the 2026 croquettes were breaded in panko.