Eat in Ghiaia, Parma

Osteria dei Servi ★ 3.9

Osteria dei Servi works the old Ghiaia market square in Parma with Vacca Rossa beef, cavallo pesto and vintage-furnished rooms open every day of the week.

Signature: Vacca Rossa beef, Tortelli d'erbetta, Cavallo pesto

Order: Vacca Rossa beef, the red-cow breed behind the original Parmigiano.

Tip: Open seven days including Sunday dinner, and vegetarians eat better here than the meat-heavy menu suggests; ask for the veganisable risottos.

Piazza Ghiaia Market ★ 3.8

Piazza Ghiaia has traded food since 1232 on the Parma torrent's old gravel bed; the glass-roofed square now hosts shops and a twice-weekly farmers' market.

Tip: Wednesday and Saturday mornings bring the Campagna Amica farm stalls; the rest of the week the square is shops and bar terraces.