The old silk weavers' hill, now Lyon's natural-wine and neo-bistro epicentre, with a weekday morning market and tightly-knit producer streets.
Regain in Lyon's 1er sits at the foot of the Croix-Rousse slope, where the kitchen runs a Mediterranean-leaning author menu paired with the city's tighter natural-wine lists.
Signature: Cuisine d'auteur, Mediterranean small plates
Order: The carte changes weekly, take the chef's tasting at lunch for value.
Tip: Lunch is the easier seating; book the natural-wine pairing for the full effect.
La Mere Brazier in Lyon's 1er is the historic room where Eugenie Brazier earned six Michelin stars in 1933, now run by Mathieu Viannay in two-star form.
Signature: Volaille de Bresse demi-deuil, Artichoke and foie gras
Order: The Volaille de Bresse demi-deuil, the signature dish since 1921.
Tip: Book the lunch menu for half the dinner price; the dining room is the original.
Circle in Lyon's 1er pulls a single seating around the kitchen counter for a chef's-choice tasting; an intimate, ten-cover room run by a young couple.
Signature: Tasting set, Seasonal carte
Order: The full tasting; there is no carte at dinner.
Tip: One service per night, Wed-Sat; book three weeks ahead via Instagram.
Chez Paul in Lyon's 1er is the working bouchon on Rue du Major Martin where regulars take the chalkboard menu and a pichet of cotes-du-rhone for lunch.
Signature: Saucisson chaud, Quenelle
Order: The saucisson chaud with potatoes, then the quenelle.
Tip: Cash-friendly. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Nafas in Lyon's 1er is the Rue Rene Leynaud Middle Eastern counter cooking hummus bowls, wraps and daily falafel plates with house pickles and tahini.
Signature: Hummus bowl, Wraps
Order: The hummus bowl with kebab and sumac onions.
Tip: Lunch and early dinner only; closed Sunday.
Zoi Kitchen at the foot of the Croix-Rousse slope cooks a Greek counter menu: souvlaki, gyros and salads served with charred pita and tzatziki.
Signature: Souvlaki, Greek salads
Order: The pork souvlaki plate with fries and tzatziki.
Tip: Lunch only Mon-Wed; full dinner Thu-Sat from 19:00.
Semo on Rue des Fantasques in Lyon's 1er is the small-plates wine bar where the chef-couple run a tight evening menu paired with a natural cellar.
Signature: Daily small plates, Wine bar carte
Order: Order four small plates between two; the cheese board is the closer.
Tip: Closed Sunday-Tuesday; book a fortnight ahead.
Le Bouillon Paradis in Lyon's 1er runs the Parisian bouillon format in Lyonnais drag: oeuf mayo, blanquette, and a three-course set under 18 EUR all day.
Signature: Bouillon classics, Oeuf mayo
Order: The oeuf mayo as a starter, then the blanquette de veau.
Tip: Walk-in only at lunch; arrive before 12:30 or after 14:00.
Le Garet on Rue du Garet in Lyon's 1er is the canonical bouchon, four blocks from the Opera, with a chalkboard menu that hasn't really changed in 30 years.
Signature: Tablier de sapeur, Quenelle de brochet
Order: Tablier de sapeur to start, then the quenelle de brochet with sauce Nantua.
Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; book a fortnight ahead for the dinner service.
Le Bouchon des Filles in Lyon's 1er is the all-woman-run bouchon on Rue Sergent Blandan, where a fixed-price set lunch runs the dining room and the kitchen.
Signature: Saucisson chaud, Cervelle de canut
Order: The set menu with saucisson chaud and cervelle de canut for dessert.
Tip: Open evenings only Wed-Sat plus Sunday lunch; book a fortnight ahead.
Chez Paul in Lyon's 1er is a working Rue du Major Martin bouchon where the carte runs the classics and the pichet of cotes-du-rhone runs the room.
Signature: Saucisson chaud, Quenelle
Order: The saucisson chaud with potatoes, then the quenelle sauce Nantua.
Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; cash-friendly; book a couple of days ahead.
Les Mauvaises Herbes on the Croix-Rousse slope in Lyon's 1er is the vegetable-forward bistro on Rue du Jardin des Plantes with a daily set and herb-led plating.
Signature: Vegetable-led plates, Daily set
Order: The set menu; the herb-led starter is the highlight.
Tip: Closed Sunday-Monday; lunch is the price-point entry at 24 EUR.
Le Bouillon Paradis in Lyon's 1er runs the bouillon format with Lyonnais accents: oeuf mayo, blanquette and a sub-18 EUR three-course set all afternoon.
Signature: Oeuf mayo, Blanquette de veau
Order: Oeuf mayo as starter, then the blanquette de veau, then ile flottante.
Tip: Walk-in only; arrive before 12:30 or after 14:00 for lunch.