Eat in Sarıyer (Yeniköy and Bebek), Istanbul

Araka 1 ★ ★ 4.6

Chef Zeynep Pınar Taşdemir's one-star Yeniköy room, a vegetable-led modern Turkish kitchen on a cobbled lane behind the upper Bosphorus marina.

Apartıman Yeniköy ★ 4.5

Chef Burçak Kazdal's Michelin-listed Bosphorus bistro in Yeniköy, mixing Mediterranean verve with Middle Eastern spice and an orange-wine-heavy Turkish.

Sade Kahve ★ 4.5

Sade Kahve below the Rumeli Hisarı fortress walls, where Turkish coffee gets brewed slow over hot ash and an all-day kahvaltı spread spills.

Signature drink: Turkish coffee brewed in ash

Sade Kahve ★ 4.4

Sade Kahve below the Rumeli Hisarı battlements, an all-day Bosphorus terrace where ash-brewed Turkish coffee meets a full kahvaltı board. Located in Sarıyer.

Why locals love it: Right under the Rumeli Hisarı walls, far enough up the Bosphorus that most day-trippers never make it.

Tip: Come on a weekday morning for the kahvaltı; the terrace fills by 11 on weekends.

Sade Kahve ★ 4.4

Sade Kahve at Rumeli Hisarı, an all-day breakfast house under the fortress walls, the serpme board served on the water-facing terrace until 02:00.

Order: Full kahvaltı board with sucuklu yumurta

Sortie ★ 4.3

Sortie on Muallim Naci Caddesi in Kuruçeşme is the Bosphorus seaside entertainment complex with six restaurants and three bars, hosting headline DJs.

Tip: Doors from 18:00; the club room peaks after 01:00. Smart dress; reservations advised at weekends. Sortie remains the survivor after Reina and Anjelique closed.

Klein Phönix ★ 4.5

Klein Phönix on 52. Sokak in the Maslak Atatürk Oto Sanayi quarter is the 4,000-capacity Klein Entertainment flagship, an Uraz Tekgöz-designed warehouse.

Tip: Industrial complex on the far north of the city; cab from Şişli is fastest. Events ticketed via Klein site or bugece. Saturday is the peak set.

Mezkla Hi-Fi Bar ★ 4.4

Mezkla Hi-Fi Bar on Yeşim Sokak in Akat above the Mezkla Mexican kitchen runs an upstairs audiophile room with a custom sound system, sound-insulated walls.

Tip: Closed Mondays; the hi-fi bar is upstairs from the restaurant. Akmerkez and the Akatlar metrobus are the closest stops. Book ahead Friday and Saturday.