Around the Sufi dargah and Humayun's Tomb: kebab and wazwan kitchens in Basti Hazrat Nizamuddin and fine dining at Sunder Nursery.
Chef Manish Mehrotra's Nisaba occupies the Humayun's Tomb Museum in New Delhi's Sunder Nursery, reworking Indian street and home food across 42 dishes.
OrderChilli tomato crab ghotala with butter buns, or the Champaran mutton.
Book1 to 2 weeks ahead
TipThere is no tasting menu in the main room, only 42 a la carte dishes; Nisaba is about 900 metres from Indian Accent, where Mehrotra made his name.
Gulfam Kashmiri Wazwan has served Kashmiri meat dishes near Nizamuddin, in Delhi, since 1987, with rogan josh and tabakh maaz as the draw here.
OrderThe tabakh maaz followed by rogan josh with steamed rice.
TipThere is indoor and outdoor seating as well as takeaway; start with the tabakh maaz, then rogan josh with steamed rice.
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