The west-side warren of brown cafes, canal-side terraces and Italian rooms; Toscanini, Cafe Papeneiland and Winkel 43 still write the rules.
Sampurna has run an unpretentious rijsttafel for 35-plus years; the Lijnbaansgracht room in the Jordaan is open all day from noon and pours one.
Signature: Rijsttafel Sampurna, Sate ayam, Gado gado
Order: Rijsttafel Sampurna with extra sambal badjak on the side.
Tip: Walk-in friendly at lunch, book for dinner. Open daily from noon.
Toscanini has been Amsterdam's reference Italian since 1985, a Jordaan room running its own bread, its own pasta, and a list weighted toward small producers.
Signature: Hand-rolled pasta, Bistecca, Tiramisu
Order: Whatever the pasta of the day is; the bread basket is also their own bake.
Tip: Reserve two weeks out for weekends. The room is loud, in the best Italian-trattoria sense.
Moeders on Rozengracht is the room for Dutch stamppot, erwtensoep and the other home-mother dishes, the walls covered in photos of mothers customers.
Signature: Stamppot, Erwtensoep, Boerenkool
Order: The stamppot of the week with rookworst sausage and braised pork.
Tip: Bring a photo of your mother for the wall. Reservation strongly advised.
Bistrot Neuf has run on Haarlemmerstraat since 2009 as Amsterdam's reference French bistro, a tight room turning out classics: steak frites from the bavette.
Signature: Steak frites, Pâté en croûte
Order: Steak frites with the natural-wine-leaning house red.
Tip: Walk-in often works on a Tuesday or Wednesday. Friday is a full sitting.
La Perla in Amsterdam's Jordaan has run a wood-fired Roman-Neapolitan crossover since 2009, the bar across the alley taking overflow and people-watching.
Signature: Margherita, Diavola, Marinara
Order: Margherita with the salty house-cured anchovies on the side.
Tip: Walk-up only at the bar opposite; the dining room takes phone bookings.
Moeders on Rozengracht is the Amsterdam stamppot room, walls lined with photos of mothers from customers, the menu a Dutch grandmother's repertoire.
Signature: Stamppot, Erwtensoep, Bitterballen
Order: Stamppot of the week with rookworst sausage.
Tip: Bring a photo of your mother to add to the wall. Reservation advised.
Salmuera on Rozengracht in the Jordaan is the Amsterdam Argentinian-Mexican grill, a long charcoal asado at the back and an over-70-bottle mezcal list.
Signature: Charcoal-grilled beef, Empanadas, Provoleta
Order: Bife de chorizo from the asador, provoleta and empanadas to start.
Tip: Book the bar to watch the grill. Mezcal flights are a notable detour from the wine pairing.
Cafe Sonneveld stands on the corner of Egelantiersgracht and Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat in the Jordaan with a sunny canal-side terrace looking toward the Westerkerk, serving genever, kopstoot beers and Dutch comfort food late into the evening.
Tip: Terrace fills the moment the sun hits it; the kitchen runs until close with kroketten and burgers. Cash card preferred.